Husky' 435?

[spudulike]

Oh yea , in a minuet someone is going to mention PPE and college oh I just did !

 

Mmmm - when I first started cutting I was a bit blase about PPE, was on the US site and saw a picture of a climber who took a saw accross his face - the surgeon gave up couonting stitches at 300+........I went out and purchased a helmet with ear and face protection the next day.

 

That image will stay with me forever:thumbdown:

 

If you do nothing else, find out how kickback occurs (DO NOT CUT WITH THE TIP OF THE BAR) as well as the pinching on a compression cut and learn to cut avoiding these phenomena - prevention is better than a cure!

 

Saw wise as I previously stated, for under £200 you will be able to purchase a tidy 345/350 Husky or a decent 024/026 Stihl, all will give you long service and cut the wood you need to.

 

These saws are relatively light and won't break your back when using them for a couple of hours and that is a major factor if you don't do loads of physical type work.

 

IMO, the Huskys have better AV and air filtration and maybe the Stihls have a longer life but TBH, with cutting your own firewood, you won't wear your saw out!

[New Forest DEAN]

Thanks again - will look the other models mentioned.

 

I wasn't going to bother with PPE or training - a few weeks ago my neighbour fell 15 foot onto his chainsaw, with no PPE and, despite some bad injuries, lots of blood, and a free helicopter ride, he's sort of all right now (I had to do the first aid).

 

I figure, if he got away with it, then so can I.......

 

DEAN.

 

ps - I am an idiot, by the way.

[spudulike]

Thanks again - will look the other models mentioned.

 

I wasn't going to bother with PPE or training - a few weeks ago my neighbour fell 15 foot onto his chainsaw, with no PPE and, despite some bad injuries, lots of blood, and a free helicopter ride, he's sort of all right now (I had to do the first aid).

 

I figure, if he got away with it, then so can I.......

 

DEAN.

 

ps - I am an idiot, by the way.

 

Takes all sorts in life and the longer you live, the more you see. Sounds like you have a bit of common so no offence intended about PPE and keep safe:thumbup:

 

Sorry to hear about your idiotic tendancies, my favourite saying is "I may act like an idiot but it doesn't mean I am":lol:

[New Forest DEAN]

Absolutely no offence taken whatsoever - I have very thick skin and a terrible sense of humour. The more info' the better, whether PPE, handling skills, models etc - it's all good.

 

The search so far on the models recommended...

 

Husky 365 are over £500, so too expensive.

Stihl 026 1999 16inch £275

Stihl 346XPG 14inch 2006 £275

Stihl MS270 2005 16inch £300

 

I must say that the 435 is still looking good as £280 will get me a new one.

Edited May 31, 2012 by New Forest DEAN

[spudulike]

I haven't used one but the 41cc engine is fairly small and you would be surprised how much extra wallop another 5-10cc actually gives.

 

Weight wise the saw will be good though and if the majority of timber you will cut is 4" - 12", you will probably be OK with it.

 

Don't get carried away with the bar size, 15" would be perfect for it, longer would be bad and the engine won't cope with say an 18" - please take this as gospel - large bars don't mean large todgers:lol:

 

If you get the choice, go for an Oregon Micro lite bar with 95VPX narrow kerf chain, it will allow this little saw to keep going in larger wood and will make it much nicer to use.

 

I still rate a decent secondhand 345/350 for under £200 but understand that it is a risk buying from Ebay etc - just sold my 345 to Geoff on this site - great little saw:thumbup:

[Stubby]

Don't mean to keep on but please learn how to sharpen . It will save you a lot of arse ache believe me . Good luck with your purchase what ever it be .

[face cord]

Anyone know how an ECHO CS-420ES compares to the Husky 435.

[New Forest DEAN]

No worries Stubby - I have a mate who's a tree surgeon who is willing to give me some lessons.

 

Dean.

[spudulike]

No worries Stubby - I have a mate who's a tree surgeon who is willing to give me some lessons.

 

Dean.

 

Of course Andy (Stubby) is correct, simple way to know if your saw is blunt - remember how it cuts when the chain is new:thumbup:

 

The saw should belt out little squares of cut wood known as chips, it should self feed in to wood with no or little presure being put on the saw on the wood. The pic in my avatar shows an upward cut and the explosion of chips exiting the cut:thumbup1:

 

Keeping it sharp saves time, saves fuel and chain oil, cuts down engine wear, sprocket/bar/chain wear and reduces fatigue in your body thus reducing the risk of injury.

 

Get your pal to show you and get him to show you how and when to file the depth gauges (rakers) - a common mistake is to not file these and wonder why you are polishing your way through wood:001_rolleyes:

 

It will all make sense with 30 mins tuition and you will know when you have done a good job.