in feed problem

[treequip]

It might be the key that links the roller to the drive shaft. We've had that before. They're generally pretty small for the amount of work they do. Often they damage the keyway too so you have to get a new feed roller as well

 

That doesn't square with the symptom, the reset button cures the problem, no end of pushing buttons will cure a worn keyway, the problem is likely to be an electrical one on the in feed protection.

[PeteB]

If it keeps going to "stop" and you have to reset the "feed in" with the button. Then the first thing I would look to is the stop bar. It seems that that is the issue. It is activating too early or unnecessarily thus your need to press "feed in".

[Able Fella]

Possibly sensor on the rear of the fly wheel.

[Paul Smith]

Possibly the Tacho or motherboard?

[Big 'Ammer]

If it keeps going to "stop" and you have to reset the "feed in" with the button. Then the first thing I would look to is the stop bar. It seems that that is the issue. It is activating too early or unnecessarily thus your need to press "feed in".

 

What he said.

 

You have a Kwik Chip 222, right?

 

Check the clearance from the the little roller wheel switch to the part of the stop bar that touches it.

 

If thats ok, then the switch itself maybe faulty.

 

If its not those, then work your way back from there.

[simonm]

It seems to stop the rollers as soon as any material of a decent size goes through the rollers?

[Big 'Ammer]

Check the connection to the throttle cable hasn't slipped a tiny bit and you are not quite at full engine revs, even though the lever is wide open.

 

It may be set high enough that the rollers will work, but any slight drop in speed when feeding bigger brash could make the no-stress kick in.

 

From one of your previous posts, I think you said the engine mounting studs had sheared.

 

If you have recently had the engine out to replace the mounting studs, the cable may require fine adjustment after putting it all back together.

 

Or, if the battery has been off for any length of time, the no-stress counter may need to be reset.

[simonm]

Check the connection to the throttle cable hasn't slipped a tiny bit and you are not quite at full engine revs' date=' even though the lever is wide open.

 

It may be set high enough that the rollers will work, but any slight drop in speed when feeding bigger brash could make the no-stress kick in.

 

From one of your previous posts, I think you said the engine mounting studs had sheared.

 

If you have recently had the engine out to replace the mounting studs, the cable may require fine adjustment after putting it all back together.

 

Or, if the battery has been off for any length of time, the no-stress counter may need to be reset.[/quote']

 

the machine has not got a no stress on it! should it be a digital display with numbers on it? yeah the engine was out for just over a day while i fabricated a plate for it. do you know what that is in the photo i put on this thread? is it some sort of pressure relief valve? whats its purpose?

[treequip]

the machine has not got a no stress on it! should it be a digital display with numbers on it? yeah the engine was out for just over a day while i fabricated a plate for it. do you know what that is in the photo i put on this thread? is it some sort of pressure relief valve? whats its purpose?

 

It's a solenoid operated diverter valve. The no stress operates it on on some machines when you trip the infeed protection it sends all the oil back to tank rather than through the roller circuit.

Edited May 8, 2012 by treequip
Ipad predictive text is pants

[simonm]

So what's telling it to divert the oil back to the tank? There is no stress on this machine?