CS100 blade changing...

[Breezeblock]

I simply couldn't face the thought of this aggro so i let the local authorised Greenmech dealer replace the blades for me as the original ones were completely worn and had been resharpened too many times......so it cost me £400 for the new blades including labour. Money well spent as the machine runs alot smoother and chips loike a boss now. Will probably rotate the blades next time round myself though.

 

that seems very expensive and not very cost effective way of running a chipper learn to change the blades yourself

[wicklamulla]

that seems very expensive and not very cost effective way of running a chipper learn to change the blades yourself

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yes of course your right and as i have an engineering background and cud have done the blades, but as i was busy and making $$ and decided this was one job that i was happy and willing to pay for. The way i look at it is if you can do all your own repairs/maintenance you will learn alot more and know what has and has not been done but on the other hand if you cannot afford to pay for 'run of the mill' repair bills from time to time then you are not in the right business or making enough money to warrant that.

[Bob The Dog]

Having read the manual first, I wasn't exactly sure about the anvil clearance and how I went about setting it all up. Following the discussion with the greenmech guy, it was actually straightforward. The machine chips really well now with sharp blades. I'm waiting for Saturn knife guys to get some cs100 blades in so that I have a spare set. I think they were £60 each plus vat, whereas greenmech want £90 each plus vat. Perhaps there's a reason for the extra money, but I'm gonna try the cheaper ones first!

[Spoons]

How are you supposed to set the anvil clearance gap once blades have been sharpened? The manual doesn't say a thing. Is that bent piece of metal meant to do with something about it?

[PeteB]

With the cassette on the bench, fit your sharp blades then have a look at how close the anvil is to the blades. Ideally, they want to pass the shear bar fairly closely. Check both blades as there may be a difference. If the gap is significant then undo the shear bar and slide it in to decrease the gap. Or, fit the shim between the blade and the blade bed.

 

Hope that helps.....

[Bob The Dog]

The recommended clearance is 0.5mm between the blade and the anvil, which isn't a lot! Be mindful however, the that part of the blade which passes the closest to the anvil may not be the edge itself. I believe the closest part on mine was the top edge of the bevel on the ground edge (if that makes sense?). Once the blades are in and torqued down, loosen and lightly retighten the anvil bolts and just use a hammer to knock them gently up or down, with a feeler gauge in between the blade and the anvil. The guy I spoke with at greenmech uses a long length of 0.5mm thick metal which covers the whole blade in one go.

[PeteB]

Very good advice! Because of the tip geometry, the back end of the blade can also be quite close. Thanks for adding your comments.

[morten]

The recommended clearance is 0.5mm between the blade and the anvil, which isn't a lot! Be mindful however, the that part of the blade which passes the closest to the anvil may not be the edge itself. I believe the closest part on mine was the top edge of the bevel on the ground edge (if that makes sense?). Once the blades are in and torqued down, loosen and lightly retighten the anvil bolts and just use a hammer to knock them gently up or down, with a feeler gauge in between the blade and the anvil. The guy I spoke with at greenmech uses a long length of 0.5mm thick metal which covers the whole blade in one go.

 

How are you supposed to set the anvil clearance gap once blades have been sharpened? The manual doesn't say a thing. Is that bent piece of metal meant to do with something about it?

 

The "bent piece of metal" that is supplied with new CS-100's is meant to be used as a feeler gauge. By inserting it along the anvil, you can simply slide the sharpened blades down so it touches the gauge.

 

Someone should urge GreenMech to explain this and document it (with pictures) in the manual!

 

I include a picture of the gauge and a set of CS-100 blades for information.

[Tim Stobart Tree Surgery]

Where is that bent bit of metal when teh machine is supplied? I have a horrid feeling mine may still be there!

[Stevedavid43]

Glad it's not just me, I came to take mine off the other day and 6 bolts rounded off! I am waiting for some new bolts so I can have a good go at them. The green mech guy said that they weld a bolt onto the end of the nut as a last straw, but they did say to torque the bolts to 30.

I hope to get the bolts next week and get the blades turned, I do think this is the only fault on the machine though