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Has anyone cut through a flipline?


Dilz
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Soft link on your flip line is vital.

You never know when you may get it wrong or the tree reacts in a way you weren't expecting. I got it wrong dismantling a dead oak and whilst I suffered quite a bad crush injury, it would have been alot worse if I hadn't been able to cut through my soft link to relieve the pressure.

Be safe guys!

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that vid is good, i'm going to show it to some folk, although it did need you to 'go for it' and id hope that most of us can tell when we hit something metal and stop quick... especially when jamming an 880 with a big bar in to a nail and being then handed the file...... but it does prove my point that you can cut through them, and with an 020 as well... i was thinking it would struggle...

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Soft link on your flip line is vital.

You never know when you may get it wrong or the tree reacts in a way you weren't expecting. I got it wrong dismantling a dead oak and whilst I suffered quite a bad crush injury, it would have been alot worse if I hadn't been able to cut through my soft link to relieve the pressure.

Be safe guys!

 

What happened exactly? was it while taking the top out of it and it split?

 

I always put my flipline on the centre bridge for taking out the top, that way if the tree splits then it stops at your bridge instead of making you part of the link. Never wanted my guts pushed up and out my mouth, or for that matter down and out my... well thats enough of that!

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If you are worried about the tree splitting and crushing you then do it differently :001_smile:. I think the soft-link would more come into play for rescue situations where the climbers weight is on the flipline and cutting the soft-link is easier than getting the biner/snap undone.

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i dislike how i sit with the flip line in my central ring, however having the flip line in a figure of 8 configuration i am told has the similar effect of not making you part of the loop should the top rip. These events can sometimes catch us by suprise, i hate using my flip line in a figure of 8 as it rubs across my knot. I recognise more now the kind of trees where this is likely, mostly if they have a forward lean, there are way we can cut to aviod this such as boring in behind the hinge so that the hinge is already formed as it is usualy the tree trying to go with too big a hinge that causes it to rip down in this dangerous manner we are talking about, or using the double sink cut technique...though this means you have less control over the direction (with the double sink cut) but if the stem or branch has so much of a lean its going that way no matter. Also I have noticed over the last few weeks here in sweden how the instances of tearing increase this time of year and i guess its the same in the uk, due to the changes in the sap wood, so i make my cuff cuts deep, especially on the oaks as these have caused me grief in the past and when the temperatures get to around -15 and below well......its all rather experimental.......i spoke with some real old school foresters out here and even they say you can never be sure what is going to happen when the trees are frozen...

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What happened exactly? was it while taking the top out of it and it split?

 

I always put my flipline on the centre bridge for taking out the top, that way if the tree splits then it stops at your bridge instead of making you part of the link. Never wanted my guts pushed up and out my mouth, or for that matter down and out my... well thats enough of that!

 

That is a useful tip, never thought of that.

Edited by Le Sanglier
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Tried to with a 66, didnt get far, apart from a few stray sharp bits it wasnt harmed but messed up the chain.

 

maybe a husky would of been better:thumbup:

seriously I have cut several on purpose and the bigger the saw the faster the cut however in a real situation you would be more likely to cut along the strop that at 90 degrees

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