What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

What would cause a piston ring to snap Steve ? Put a genuine husky one on a 550 and it lasted about 8 tanks of fuel before the saw lost all compression and cleanly broke in half ... No damage at all though!

 

Could just be under tempered but unusual with OEM kit, was it a genuine piston? If not, it may have got a bit of flutter at high revs.

 

Other than that, the new breed Huskys have very flat exhaust port floors making a ring snag possible, especially of the saw had seized, been cleaned and the bevels not cleaned.

[MattyF]

Steve kaput ?

[spudulike]

Steve kaput ?

[ATTACH]204139[/ATTACH]

 

It would look like the ring broke in the centre of the exhaust port and the dent in the roof of the port is the impression of the ring. It is really difficult to tell how much damage there is but I would reckon that the ring would have bruised that port edge and would need grinding out and that wouldn't be good on such a sensitive area.

 

Like I said when we spoke, I have a couple of options but let me know if I can be of help.

[Richard Thompson]

Ive had the 661 and 391 on the bench today just for a clean / sharpen and to grease the clutch bearings, they both had a squeek in the clutch area when sharpening

so a bit of preventative maintainance with two new bearing cages and E clips on the shopping list for the next visit to the dealers

[spudulike]

MS660 on the bench at the moment, big end failure so have pulled the bottom end apart. The £300 price tag of a new crank is too much to bear so am fitting aftermarket, new OEM bearings, new Meteor piston as it got a bit of damage from the debris. Should be back together soon.

 

346XP in, seized badly but the bore has cleaned up nicely and am waiting for a new piston. It needs a new manifold as the impulse connector nipple is split.

 

MS200 for rebuild and porting, the owner listed a raft of parts he wanted fitted but am not fitting and am saving him money as none of them needed replacing and don't throw money where it is not needed:thumbup:

[Dillinger86]

My husqvarna 365 got some major chain creepidge, clutch looks ok, idle wants tinkering with but am not comfident with fiddling with the high low: (

[Dan Forsh]

MS200 for rebuild and porting, the owner listed a raft of parts he wanted fitted but am not fitting and am saving him money as none of them needed replacing and don't throw money where it is not needed

 

Nice to see Steve, plenty would take his money, regardless, if he's asked for it.

[spudulike]

Nice to see Steve, plenty would take his money, regardless, if he's asked for it.

 

I know, I would rather inspect, measure and deduct that the parts are OK, won't last much longer or are shot. Expensive ones always get referred for approval with an explanation of what I think.

 

It is simple but just like to make sure there are no surprises and the customer has the treatment I would wish for myself!

 

I do good cost effective repairs, matching the age and value of the saw with the amount it will cost and the condition it is in.....all very simple in my eyes:thumbup:

[spudulike]

My husqvarna 365 got some major chain creepidge, clutch looks ok, idle wants tinkering with but am not comfident with fiddling with the high low: (

 

You won't need to play with the H screw as it will make no difference to idle speed on this saw. I would suggest stripping the clutch and drum, clean and lube it, fit new clutch springs and go from there.

 

If the idle has changed and there are no reasons for it then it may be an air leak so go very carefully. If you can't get the idle down by turning the idle out around 1/2 turn and there is no reason why the idle has changed (previous fiddling/stuck throttle mech) then it points to an air leak and if that continues, the saw will go pop.

 

Are the high revs still OK or does it scream a bit? Is it still pulling OK in large cuts?

[Dillinger86]

You won't need to play with the H screw as it will make no difference to idle speed on this saw. I would suggest stripping the clutch and drum, clean and lube it, fit new clutch springs and go from there.

 

If the idle has changed and there are no reasons for it then it may be an air leak so go very carefully. If you can't get the idle down by turning the idle out around 1/2 turn and there is no reason why the idle has changed (previous fiddling/stuck throttle mech) then it points to an air leak and if that continues, the saw will go pop.

 

Are the high revs still OK or does it scream a bit? Is it still pulling OK in large cuts?

 

 

Revs ok, doesn't scream. Have infact just got it back from being serviced. They inspected clutch and said it was fine. Pulls well through large cuts... New clutch springs then and thorough clean?