What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

[attach]191498[/attach]

 

It doesn't look too bad, if it was that worn, the ridge on the outer edge of the shoe would be a lot thinner than it is.

 

Is the drum OK, often there are a couple of ripples running around the inside of the drum and you can feel them if you pull your finger from its back wall and over the area the clutch runs on.

 

Worth having the springs off and making sure the shoes move freely on the central boss - little it of Copper Slip grease will help!

 

The wear doesn't look too bad, not sure about the "only one side wear" - the clutch isn't too blued from friction heat through slipping.

[div_h]

It doesn't look too bad, if it was that worn, the ridge on the outer edge of the shoe would be a lot thinner than it is.

 

Is the drum OK, often there are a couple of ripples running around the inside of the drum and you can feel them if you pull your finger from its back wall and over the area the clutch runs on.

 

Worth having the springs off and making sure the shoes move freely on the central boss - little it of Copper Slip grease will help!

 

The wear doesn't look too bad, not sure about the "only one side wear" - the clutch isn't too blued from friction heat through slipping.

 

The first picture I mean round the circumstance of the clutch... Only half is shiny the drum looks fine inside, I will have the springs of it lube it up and put it back together

 

Only bought it because I was sawless and had would to cut so it will be for sale soon enough

[Dan Forsh]

Anyone have any tips on the best way to remove the outer race of a crank bearing from the case halve that doesn't require better eyesight than mine and the next two hours using a Dremel and diamond burr?

 

Trying to replace the crank bearings on a saw for someone and was initially happy that both bearings stayed in the cases when I split them (I always prefer this to trying to get a bearing off the crank), unfortunately the clutch side bearing was shot and decided the spit out the inner race and bearings when I turned it over to take the oil seal out.

[spudulike]

Anyone have any tips on the best way to remove the outer race of a crank bearing from the case halve that doesn't require better eyesight than mine and the next two hours using a Dremel and diamond burr?

 

Trying to replace the crank bearings on a saw for someone and was initially happy that both bearings stayed in the cases when I split them (I always prefer this to trying to get a bearing off the crank), unfortunately the clutch side bearing was shot and decided the spit out the inner race and bearings when I turned it over to take the oil seal out.

 

If you read my posts from around three months ago, I had the same issue and did it with a dremmel but others had other ideas!

[Dan Forsh]

If you read my posts from around three months ago, I had the same issue and did it with a dremmel but others had other ideas!

 

Cheers Steve, it's your post 7900 if anyone else is wondering.

 

I actually managed it in an hour and a half, so not too bad. After dremelling two slots in it, but not getting to the point of it splitting, I managed to get the inner race back in with enough balls that it held and I could push it out with the arbor press, maybe the slots made it easier, I'm not sure, but it's out!

[spudulike]

Cheers Steve, it's your post 7900 if anyone else is wondering.

 

I actually managed it in an hour and a half, so not too bad. After dremelling two slots in it, but not getting to the point of it splitting, I managed to get the inner race back in with enough balls that it held and I could push it out with the arbor press, maybe the slots made it easier, I'm not sure, but it's out!

 

Excellent:thumbup:

[spudulike]

What I did this weekend.....lots of MS200Ts in again. Always a pleasure working on these small saws as I find them pretty easy and have a high level of success fixing all their faults and returning a decent running machine.

 

One unfortunate problem happened when I was tightening the flywheel on a MS201. I usually do these up pretty tight to stop the obvious happening.

 

This one made a ringing "PING" and it was rubbing on the inner crankcase so popped it off and my fears were realised, this one had a fracture and was scrap.

 

I guess the modern castings are not as strong as the old ones as I have done many MS200Ts without this issue - order placed with the new part at my expense...ouch:blushing:

 

Other than that, had an old MS340 in, lots of airleaks traced back to a bad cylinder base gasket and split impulse line. They were so difficult to find, I ended up taking the rear handle off to speed things up!

 

After this, I had the saw failing to start every time I took the fuel cap off. I saw the fuel leaking from the high speed check valve in the carb and after a lot of tweaks, testing and cursing, I replaced the thin rubber diaphragm on the brand new carb with a typical thicker "normal" rubber one and all was good...bang on infact:thumbup:

[spudulike]

Another job for the weekend was fitting a new extraction pump in the workshop to replace the bathroom one that was never really man enough.

 

Sure, it looks sort of drug dealer cannabis grower but this mother really sucks. It is a big blue Stube in line fan and shifts around 700 cubic metres of air per hour.

 

I fired up the old MS340 and that really smoked due to the oil in the bore where I had dismantled it earlier. I watched intrigued as thin strands of smoke were pulled toward the duct and out of my workshop and it was clear as a bell in around 5 minutes.

 

I have wired in a dimmer to control the speed so whilst I am working, I can have it spinning over slowly and increase it when I am mixing fuel or have a saw to fire up for a short while if it is early or late in the day.

 

I am also clearing out some of the old kit I have and throwing away some of the old rubbish you acquire - it should look a fair bit tidier soon but don't expect a Gardenkit type of obsessively organised bench!

[Dan Forsh]

Well that was a waste of a couple hours rebuild time and a pair of oil seals. The crank gasket came out of the blister packet with a crease in it. I thought it would be okay and even put some Dirko on it for added security, apparently not. Any chance I can split this without ruining the oil seals? Maybe just the one?

[spudulike]

Well that was a waste of a couple hours rebuild time and a pair of oil seals. The crank gasket came out of the blister packet with a crease in it. I thought it would be okay and even put some Dirko on it for added security, apparently not. Any chance I can split this without ruining the oil seals? Maybe just the one?

 

It depends on what saw it is as some are difficult but there is a good chance the seals will be OK even if the saw is split. The flywheel side is generally softer on the seal than the clutch side so if you can leave the crank in the clutch side, it would be better as the seal is unlikely to get damaged on the crank tapered end.

 

Yeah - TS400!!