What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

Thanks Spud and Rich for your help.

 

It doesn't show the same symptoms as my 066 did when it had an air leak. It idles down quickly, to a stable, consistent point which hasn't changed as the chain is still just on the edge of moving. When revved out, the pick-up is good and the revs are stable and don't climb. My experience of air-leak failure is limited (fortunately!) to one, but this saw is not doing the same things as my previous experience, hence my further questions.

 

The only things it's doing differently from normal are that the revs drop that little bit more a couple of seconds later - again it's consistent, and it's not much as I can only just hear the engine note change. I can't test what happens if you rev up after idling - it does the idling bit, but not the revving up as it consistently dies.

 

I will take the carb off and give it a clean - I've run neat acetone in ultrasonic baths before which gets a bit exciting at times, but I won't go that route this time as my kitchen ceiling is quite low. I'll see if this helps, but it's worth pressure and vacuum testing it anyway I think. Is there anything hidden to look for when taking the carb off? I haven't worked on a saw this small before and it looks very fiddly compared to an 076!

 

Alec

 

It may be worth seting the L screw back to one turn out and then setting the idle screw to the correct revs. The carbs are pretty much the same as all the carbs fitted to modern day saws, strimmers, trimmers etc - nothing special.

 

It could be worth checking the impulse line - I have had some trouble with the carbs not making good contact with the line before and splits just behind the airbox - the pressure/vac test will show this.

[Rich2484]

Fidly is not the word I would use Alec. The carb is really straight forward. Air filter, two 8mm nuts. And then the throttle rod.

 

Oh and the PITA bit is having to take the black top part of the rear handle off as the carb will not slip past it. This is by a screw under the handle on the rear hand guard. Turn the saw over and you will see it.

 

There is a small catch at the bottom of the carb for the handle part. Be carefull as the locking trigger spring will go flying if you take it off too quick.

 

With this part off the carb will be easy to pull out. Once the fuel pipe is removed of course.

 

The impulse line is behind the white plastic that sourounded the carb, this is not removable and is a pita when removing the pot. But you won't need to do that. I have had these lines also split and come clean off the ends. Check its connected before you go pulling everything apart.

 

The best part is getting the handle back together once done.

 

Enjoy

 

Richard.

[spudulike]

Another busy weekend, been working on an old but extremely good original condition Stihl 031AV, it is all ready to sell now and all works really well, especially for a saw this age.

 

Also started work on a Husky 335XPT, another of my own saws doing for resale. The piston has had a slight seize so I pulled out an old engine a kind member once sent to me - may have been DAX but really can't recall. The piston and bore are great but the crank has seen better days (See Below)

Not sure it should be in two parts but am grateful as it will restore the saw to good condition when done!

 

The flywheel seal was shot so also carefully pulled both seals and bearings off the old busted crank and will use these as the engine looks like it has had a real low amount of use:thumbup:

 

The piston bears a mark on the top that looks like someone has used a solid stop (not an issue) but proibably an air chuck has been used to shift the clutch and bang:thumbdown:

[Rich2484]

Ok here is one for the very knowledgable out there.

 

Got an old 048av and I'm looking out for some av monts for it. It is an old yet very powerfull saw. So would be a shame to scrap it. I know the parts are obsolete now so would any other mounts fit it?

 

Also have an issue with running on its side but its used for ringing up timber and not felling. Just for when the 088 is just too biq.

[agg221]

Ok here is one for the very knowledgable out there.

 

Got an old 048av and I'm looking out for some av monts for it. It is an old yet very powerfull saw. So would be a shame to scrap it. I know the parts are obsolete now so would any other mounts fit it?

 

Both the back lower mount and the 'normal' one appear to be available on ebay.de - 5 Euros each and the seller ships worldwide. I've had good experiences buying from Germany as it's cheap postage and there's no duty payable.

 

Alec

 

p.s. thanks for the details on getting the 026 carb off. Fiddly is relative - you can get your fingers to almost everything on the other saws I have, bearing in mind that my average saw is >100cc

Edited January 20, 2013 by agg221

[agg221]

OK, I've sorted the black handle (with nothing springing across the floor), throttle rod is then automatically free at the outboard end. 8mm nuts are within my capability.

 

However, how do you get the fuel line off without breaking it? Do you need to do anything about the rubber buffer top right, and the black surround to the L screw access? Also, carb boot - which end is it easier to go for on this one (on the 066 there's a lot more access and it's held on with a jubilee clip which makes it obvious, but this one isn't so obvious and I don't want to go tweaking with a screwdriver and split it)?

 

Cheers

 

Alec

[agg221]

OK, spoke too soon, scrub the last post. I dug out the parts manual and realised that, unlike the early carbs I'm used to the carb boot isn't equivalent to the metal carb bases and doesn't connect through to the carb directly, and the carb was just stuck on with oil residue, rather than anything physically connecting it. So, a good tweak and off it came.

 

Also established that there is no split in the fuel line, based on the 2ft jet of petrol spraying out when I took the pipe off. Made a nice change to have a soft, flexible fuel line rather than the 1970s/80s ones I'm used to!

 

I'll strip down the carb tomorrow (back on familiar territory) and see what it looks like inside, then give it a clean and see how it does. I'll also have a quick look at the L-screw seat and the general condition of the needle valve while I'm at it, although with the fuel pressure as it was, it doesn't look like it's bypassing.

 

Alec

[spudulike]

OK, spoke too soon, scrub the last post. I dug out the parts manual and realised that, unlike the early carbs I'm used to the carb boot isn't equivalent to the metal carb bases and doesn't connect through to the carb directly, and the carb was just stuck on with oil residue, rather than anything physically connecting it. So, a good tweak and off it came.

 

Also established that there is no split in the fuel line, based on the 2ft jet of petrol spraying out when I took the pipe off. Made a nice change to have a soft, flexible fuel line rather than the 1970s/80s ones I'm used to!

 

I'll strip down the carb tomorrow (back on familiar territory) and see what it looks like inside, then give it a clean and see how it does. I'll also have a quick look at the L-screw seat and the general condition of the needle valve while I'm at it, although with the fuel pressure as it was, it doesn't look like it's bypassing.

 

Alec

 

So you didn't tip the saw at a 45 deg angle and loosen the fuel cap before removing the fuel line:001_rolleyes: Thats one for experience - glad you don't smoke!!

 

Inspecting the need the needle valve isn't that valid, you really need to get a pressure gauge on the carb to check it will hold 10-15psi without it leaking - pretty much one of my standard checks on all carbs.

 

You can stick a bit of tube on the fuel connector, give it a big suck and stick your tongue over the tube and see if it holds pressure for 10-15 secs - not definitive but better than nothing.

 

A can of carb cleaner is a good friend IMO and check the jets are clear.

 

If you get really stuck, drop it in and I will give it a once over for you.

 

It appears cake is the currency for 10 minute jobs:thumbup: eh Burrell!!!

[Rich2484]

Also established that there is no split in the fuel line, based on the 2ft jet of petrol spraying out when I took the pipe off. Made a nice change to have a soft, flexible fuel line rather than the 1970s/80s ones I'm used to!

 

 

Will only do this the once on the nice coffee table in the living room. Trust me

[mikerecike]

 

Same Stihl O11 - carb now ultra'd and running lovely - chain sharpened, bar dressed but chain was running on annoyingly at a working idle. Guessed it might be clutch springs. Clutch and sprocket removed to reveal seized ish sprocket needle bearings - tried freeing up and lubed (what do you lube needle bearings with?) and now spins more freely. Ordered a new needle bearing to stop crank dragging sprocket round at idle. Am hoping this will do the trick - glad i didn't dive straight into a clutch spring job.

Will post result when bearing fitted.