What's on your bench today?

[Adamam]

Tip request!

 

 

Say you took the cylinder off a saw, and then realised that you you needed to remove the clutch (!!! only an idiot would do such a thing! Certainly not me!! ), is there a safe way of getting the clutch off without reinstalling the cylinder?

 

Putting a spanner on the flywheel is a no-no I gather...

 

[spudulike]

Tip request!

 

 

Say you took the cylinder off a saw, and then realised that you you needed to remove the clutch (!!! only an idiot would do such a thing! Certainly not me!! ), is there a safe way of getting the clutch off without reinstalling the cylinder?

 

Putting a spanner on the flywheel is a no-no I gather...

 

 

Two pieces of wood wedged between the crankcase surface that joints the cylinder and the bottom of the piston skirt, make sure they are hard against the con rod and use them to lock the piston in place - it has worked before:thumbup:

[spudulike]

So do most of us, when it comes to these common symptoms.

 

But in the spirit of this thread, why not take a couple of photographs of the broken clutch spring and the wire/switch that causes these symptoms and post them here?

 

That would further increase the educational value of the thread.

 

Sorry, it is done, all repaired bar fitting a new chain brake handle!

 

Been repairing this MS200 and also started to clean and port a 357XPG - yes, it has heated handles:thumbup:

 

I like doing these saws as the inlet and outlet ports can really be opened out. From the pics below, you can see how far the exhaust port can be widened by the red guidelines!

 

The crankcase has stuffers on the lobes that increase the transfer velocity, one of the few saws that have this technology on them. The transfers have been blended and enhanced, the inlet has been widened and the lower transfers are awaiting modification!

 

It will probably run up to 15,000rpm when finished:-)

[bobh]

Spud - Every time you post one of these porting posts I start to get twitchy with the dremel and we all know that would end with a dead saw and my Mrs giving me an ear bashing.

Stop it or I'll end up trying to port that Jonsered of Gardenkit's

[Rich2484]

Spud - Every time you post one of these porting posts I start to get twitchy with the dremel and we all know that would end with a dead saw and my Mrs giving me an ear bashing.

Stop it or I'll end up trying to port that Jonsered of Gardenkit's

 

:lol:

[Eddy_t]

Spud - Every time you post one of these porting posts I start to get twitchy with the dremel and we all know that would end with a dead saw and my Mrs giving me an ear bashing.

Stop it or I'll end up trying to port that Jonsered of Gardenkit's

 

You may as well have a go for what it cost you, who knows, you might be successful

[spudulike]

Spud - Every time you post one of these porting posts I start to get twitchy with the dremel and we all know that would end with a dead saw and my Mrs giving me an ear bashing.

Stop it or I'll end up trying to port that Jonsered of Gardenkit's

 

OMG:scared1:

 

TBH, the first one is the worst, you just need to understand how the engine works and what you need to do to get it going better. I certainly don't know it all but I know what I CAN do and also, what works!

 

I haven't started playing with timing wheels....yet, but do open up ports and transfers to a point the saw gets somewhat lively:thumbup:

 

If you do get the bug, PM me and I will give you a few tips that may save you shagging the engine and making a big mistake:blushing: That is an offer to a past customer rather than to everybody:001_rolleyes:

 

The new P&C on a 357XP is somewhere near £240 so would be a tad embarrasing if I had cocked up the first one:lol:

 

I get a good feeling about this one, the last one went to Burrell who has been abusing it ever since and has been his trusty sidekick - they are infectious - even my hedge trimmer is now ported!

[Rich2484]

I must add to all those who are looking at this porting thing.

 

It will reduce the life of a saw. Probably not dramatically but it will reduce it.

 

It does take some doing and a lot of thinking and forward planning.

 

And you must be prepared if you havnt done it before to buy a new cylinder and piston if it all goes pete tong.

 

Also be prepared to loose any warranty.

[AlvinD]

I must add to all those who are looking at this porting thing.

 

It will reduce the life of a saw. Probably not dramatically but it will reduce it.

 

It does take some doing and a lot of thinking and forward planning.

 

And you must be prepared if you havnt done it before to buy a new cylinder and piston if it all goes pete tong.

 

Also be prepared to loose any warranty.

 

 

Out of curiousity in what way does it shorten the life of the saw?

[Rich2484]

Due to the "hard" running of the saw parts wear faster than standard.

 

Like I said in the arb game it won't be noticed as the lifespan of a saw is short anyway due to usage.

 

The saw is revving higher than it would under "normal" aspiration so its just wearing quicker. A racing saw is no good for everyday use as it won't last long cutting timber for 8 hours straight.

 

A ported "working" saw runs with greater grunt but not as high revs as a "racing" saw. But still wears faster.

 

As I said an arb saw will probably not be noticeable as the cycle of going through saws is minimal anyway. Unless the user really loves his saw and has it or umpteen years.

 

Taught well I have been....