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What's on your bench today?


spudulike

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I hope so:blushing: am hopinng Matty F is going to dig out a large lump of timber to try it out on - almost got in to trouble last time I fired up one of your saws - a tad loud!:lol:

 

Got his saw in again for a little tweaking and reckon we need to shake the bowels of hell once they are both done.:thumbup:

 

:lol: :lol: :lol:

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Ok busy day today with lifeboat and shopping. So got on the bench at 6.30pm. Just got in.

 

First was the stiga hedge cutter. Yes I done the recoil. More on that in a min.

 

Next was the ryobi. What a stupid design of engine. But it's stripped and new pump in place. Turned by hand and started oiling. Just need to rebuild the rest of the saw. Have I said what a stupid design it was. :001_rolleyes:

 

So the recoil. Well after much research on youtube and knocking some ideas about I found one that works. This guy is a genius. He has two videos up for those interested where he replaces the zip tie with a can. It really does work and is much easier. I managed to wind it up on my own but another pair of hands would have been easier to bash the nail in at the end. :thumbup:

 

[ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vxlzpsGeUDw]How to Rewind a Recoil Starter Spring - YouTube[/ame]

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In and out of setting up the Allen Strimmer, cleaning up my newly aquired hedhe trimmers, I have a 390XP in for a porting job, It already has th ehigh rise filter and a real bad boy twin port muffler on it.

 

The noce thing about this saw is it's design is like a big 346XP, the inlet and exhaust port can be opened up to near maximum due to the fact the piston has closed sides so the skirts are massive giving lots of potential.

 

The exhaust was widened lots, the upper transfers were re-modeled and the inlet opened up, there wasn't much left on the table as far as the squish goes but have put in a custom 0.2mm gasket and it is spot on minumum now that should protect against detonation.

 

The port edges were carefully beveled just down to the fact that they are large and we don't want a snagged ring.

 

The piston has twin rings and there ends are surprisingly only slightly offset so do not hinder modifications unlike on many Stihl machines:thumbup:

 

Carb needs cleaning and will then set the machine up.

 

A friend who used to race 100cc McCullough powered go-carts and spent many hours on the engine doing similar. I always enjoyed watching and occasionally doing the testing at the Mars factory car park in Slough. He also filled any useless crevices inside the crank case with cork and Araldite so reducing the internal volume and this in return allowed more fuel/air up to the inlet port and quicker. Is this something that you do too? He won quite a lot of trophies in the 1980's with this set up.

I have 'played' with a Stuart Turner two stroke twin and have got this to work very effectively (for a 1950's engine) with modern modifications!

Thank you for your posts:biggrin:

codlasher

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A friend who used to race 100cc McCullough powered go-carts and spent many hours on the engine doing similar. I always enjoyed watching and occasionally doing the testing at the Mars factory car park in Slough. He also filled any useless crevices inside the crank case with cork and Araldite so reducing the internal volume and this in return allowed more fuel/air up to the inlet port and quicker. Is this something that you do too? He won quite a lot of trophies in the 1980's with this set up.

I have 'played' with a Stuart Turner two stroke twin and have got this to work very effectively (for a 1950's engine) with modern modifications!

Thank you for your posts:biggrin:

codlasher

 

I have come across this "Crank case stuffing", it is a known method of improving performance and a good reason not to make the lower transfers too small when porting as it can reduce transfer velocity.

 

On some of the Husqvarnas, we are lucky as the manufacture has already fitted crank lobe stuffers - the 357 and 560 are two of them -

P1040141.jpg.bc5020fc4aacec886b46b304d44af85a.jpg

P1040140.jpg.436cd1271c790514e3c493b6d2d39c60.jpg

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Thought I'd join in on this topic as I was given 2 x 200Ts. Both were non runners, one because it was launched in anger at a tree by the previous owner.

Anyway, £18 later (new chain brake lever) I have one working saw and pieces of another. I'll be repairing the second one soon.

But I do have a question, the fixed one idles too fast. How do I slow the revs?

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Thought I'd join in on this topic as I was given 2 x 200Ts. Both were non runners, one because it was launched in anger at a tree by the previous owner.

Anyway, £18 later (new chain brake lever) I have one working saw and pieces of another. I'll be repairing the second one soon.

But I do have a question, the fixed one idles too fast. How do I slow the revs?

 

Hello jeff. Sorry I couldn't do much for you but I do have a business to ruin im afraid.

 

T the high revs may mean a tweak down on the low screw. But this may make the saw run lean. As not Knowing what the saw is like if its gets leaned down too much it will lean sieze.

 

I would pressure vac test it to ensure no air leaks in system. If the tickover screw won't adjust low enough wothout saw stalling out there is anotherrobpem somewhere else.

 

I could look at the other saw for "mates rates" but that is about all I could do for you.

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I hope so:blushing: am hopinng Matty F is going to dig out a large lump of timber to try it out on - almost got in to trouble last time I fired up one of your saws - a tad loud!:lol:

 

Got his saw in again for a little tweaking and reckon we need to shake the bowels of hell once they are both done.:thumbup:

 

I might have made the mistake of opening up the muffler on my 385xp a tad too much. Here she is with about 5* or so timing advance as well. This is a bifurcated sycamore I am stumping. At least that looks to be a syc...mebbe a maple...blah. Was a couple years ago.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klPIIyEkAGE]Stumping a 32" Sycamore with a ported 385XP. - YouTube[/ame]

 

I loved the sound of that 385, but I would have ported it more for torque had I done it again. It ran fine in Douglas Fir with 32" of bar, but here we just use it for stumping, and she could use more bottom end. Maybe I'm jis being fickle, tho. ;)

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I might have made the mistake of opening up the muffler on my 385xp a tad too much. Here she is with about 5* or so timing advance as well. This is a bifurcated sycamore I am stumping. At least that looks to be a syc...mebbe a maple...blah. Was a couple years ago.

 

Stumping a 32" Sycamore with a ported 385XP. - YouTube

 

I loved the sound of that 385, but I would have ported it more for torque had I done it again. It ran fine in Douglas Fir with 32" of bar, but here we just use it for stumping, and she could use more bottom end. Maybe I'm jis being fickle, tho. ;)

 

Stubbys saws seem to always come in with the loudest US import bad boy exhausts that are excessivly loud but appear to have a positive effect on performance! finished it now, just got to try it out.

 

It came with a limited 13,000 blue coil, found a novel way of overcoming this, I fitted a blur rev limited one off a 346XP:thumbup: Limited to 14100, it should give a little protection and would hope this one would tach to about 13500 - 13800 flat out....it will probably suck in small mammals and spit them out BBQed at speed:lol:

 

Expect a vid when Matty can supply some wood big enough!

 

His 395Xp now has a new fuel line, clean carb, tweaked ignition and a drilled muffler baffle plate - should liven it up as the porting I did after he seized it wasn't really working as it should - think it was him being worried about the noise:001_rolleyes: The compression is mega - can only get 150psi on the gauge before it rips your arm off - shows the work I did cleaning it up has settled in well!

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