What's on your bench today?

[Dan Forsh]

Quick hello to all from a new member.

 

Hobby saw fixer and long time member on Arboristsite, but new to Arbtalk, nice to find something a bit closer to home (no offense to anyone on AS).

 

So my latest saw on the bench (dining table) is an 044 bought as spares repair. This one I'm hoping to fix up and keep for myself rather than sell on.

 

Looks to have had hard professional use.

 

Piston is FUBAR, not sure on the cylinder just yet, have to see how well it cleans up.

 

My real issue at the moment it the condition of the crankcase. I pressure and vac tested the saw as I was breaking it down and it passed no problem. My issue is that I really don't want to build it back up on this.

 

 

You can see that the casing has been totally worn through on clutch side where the AV mount can be seen on the bottom of the saw. Don't know if it spent a lot of time cutting logs in a yard and being sat ticking over on concrete or what, but the case is well worn.

 

So I'm wondering if anyone has, or knows of a good source of 2nd hand spares were I could get a better crankcase to rebuild this thing? As I say, this one I'm intending to keep, so if it ends up costing me a bit more than I would usually spend on a rebuild, so be it, but £160 for new from Stihl is way beyond what I could justify.

 

Dan

[Chrisy B]

 

MS660 - put it back together, pulls 150psi when mildly warm so happy with that, got a muffler mod that should liven it up a little - all good, no fault found on pressure and vac tests, carb good, tank breather good and carb settings as they should be - no idea why it seized but all OK!

 

Spud,

 

You mention doing the muffler mod, did you richer up the mix after? Did a mod on my 660 then brought max revs back to 12.5k with tt20k as per book by fattening up the mix. Just wondered if this sounded right or do you think I could lean it back a tad, seems a bit smokey sometimes.

 

Cheers

Chris

[Eddy_t]

Spud,

 

You mention doing the muffler mod, did you richer up the mix after? Did a mod on my 660 then brought max revs back to 12.5k with tt20k as per book by fattening up the mix. Just wondered if this sounded right or do you think I could lean it back a tad, seems a bit smokey sometimes.

 

Cheers

Chris

 

Check the plug colour, that'll help you decide

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

[Rich2484]

Quick hello to all from a new member.

 

Hobby saw fixer and long time member on Arboristsite, but new to Arbtalk, nice to find something a bit closer to home (no offense to anyone on AS).

 

So my latest saw on the bench (dining table) is an 044 bought as spares repair. This one I'm hoping to fix up and keep for myself rather than sell on.

 

Looks to have had hard professional use.

 

Piston is FUBAR, not sure on the cylinder just yet, have to see how well it cleans up.

 

My real issue at the moment it the condition of the crankcase. I pressure and vac tested the saw as I was breaking it down and it passed no problem. My issue is that I really don't want to build it back up on this.

 

 

You can see that the casing has been totally worn through on clutch side where the AV mount can be seen on the bottom of the saw. Don't know if it spent a lot of time cutting logs in a yard and being sat ticking over on concrete or what, but the case is well worn.

 

So I'm wondering if anyone has, or knows of a good source of 2nd hand spares were I could get a better crankcase to rebuild this thing? As I say, this one I'm intending to keep, so if it ends up costing me a bit more than I would usually spend on a rebuild, so be it, but £160 for new from Stihl is way beyond what I could justify.

 

Dan

 

Personnaly I don't see much wrong with that. Just looks used. Give it a good clean up with some parrafin and an airline, then check it over again. If nothing cracked or missing could slap a bit of paint on it. Make it look pretty again.

[Guss109]

Well that's the ride on fixed tried to drop the deck to make it easier to line up the blades but its a right faff to access the bolts. So bIned that idea and then tried to remove the belt cover but you need the deck of to remove that:confused1: thankfully after a few scraped knuckles i spoted the tensioner for the timing belt so slackened that of and got them lined up:thumbup: think I will put it into the repair shop to get the blades changed as they look shot and I've not got much skin left on my knuckles:lol:

[Dan Forsh]

Hi,

 

Thanks for the reply. I hoped the first photo had been clearer than it was as the close up I tried to take wasn't great.

 

 

If you look at the front end of the clutch side at the AV buffer, that is the AV buffer that you can see all the way across the bottom. The mag has completely worn through and if you look at the AV buffer position to the back edge same side, (original pic) although its filled with sawdust, that sort of diagonal line at the buffer position is actually a crack right through the metal where its worn so thin.

[Rich2484]

Sorry dan I didn't even look at that bit. So its a new clutch side you are after then.

 

Try this.

 

STIHL 044 CHAINSAW CLUTCH SIDE CRANKCASE

 

Give the whole thing a really good clean up.

 

If you change one side you will need to take them apart, there ar e loads of videos on YouTube about how to do it. Can be a pita.

 

You may also need new crank seals when changing the case as the old one may just self destruct when taking it apart.

 

All depends on how much you want to spend on it.

[Dan Forsh]

Bugger me, I was mooching in his shop on ebay just yesterday hoping he'd have what I needed and all he had on for the 044 was a few bits and pieces.

 

Thanks for the heads up on that one mate!

 

BTW I'm no stranger to splitting crankcases and have the Stihl ZS tool for it, so no worries on that score.

 

Cheers

[spudulike]

Spud,

 

You mention doing the muffler mod, did you richer up the mix after? Did a mod on my 660 then brought max revs back to 12.5k with tt20k as per book by fattening up the mix. Just wondered if this sounded right or do you think I could lean it back a tad, seems a bit smokey sometimes.

 

Cheers

Chris

 

The muffler mod I did was fairly minor so will tach it to around 500rmp off max revs. The saw has been seized and now has a new piston so it will be tuned pretty fat on the top end to protect the piston and leaned out after a few months running.

 

In answer to your question - this richening up a saw after modifying is in fact rowlocks, I have yet to richen a saw up after any tuning....fact.

 

What happens is that when you port/muffler mod, you INCREASE the flow through the carb and engine. This increase in flow INCREASES the venturi effect through the carb, this has the effect of pulling up more fuel from the metering section of the carb and therefore the carb actually needs leaning down - most saws I port are happily running on 3/4 turn and the plug colour is a dark to mid tan colour.

 

In reality, you tune the modified saw to near maximum revs and listen for fourstroking (more obvious on muffler moded saws) and use this plus the plug colour to find out where the carb setting should be.

 

If you have a set tuning regiem and know where a saw should be then it is pretty easy to dial in the correct revs to ensure correct running.

 

As Eddy says - do a couple of big cuts then do a plug chop - take it out directly after finishing the cut an look at the colour - tan colour is good! Reckon you are running rich if it is smoking!

 

Modified saws can sound a bit rich and fat when cold - it changes after the saws are hot and they rev out fine.

[spudulike]

Hi,

 

Thanks for the reply. I hoped the first photo had been clearer than it was as the close up I tried to take wasn't great.

 

 

If you look at the front end of the clutch side at the AV buffer, that is the AV buffer that you can see all the way across the bottom. The mag has completely worn through and if you look at the AV buffer position to the back edge same side, (original pic) although its filled with sawdust, that sort of diagonal line at the buffer position is actually a crack right through the metal where its worn so thin.

 

You could get creative and cut a piece of aluminium to size and then beat it in to shape to attach it with epoxy and screws to the underside of the saw...after degreasing - it would serve a purpose and then give ot a spray over for cosmetics!

 

I believe crankcases are sold in pairs as they are drilled and doweled in the factory so no two are 100% the same - may be wrong in some cases but that is what I have heard!