What's on your bench today?

[Eddy_t]

Anyone know if (and how) to replace a battery on a DET-302 tachometer?

 

 

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[spudulike]

Anyone know if (and how) to replace a battery on a DET-302 tachometer?

 

 

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Well I guess not but did find a karting site where they said they were soldered in place - some are not supposed to be changed - one reason I got one powered with a PP3 9volt battery - nice and simple!

 

Sorry - can't be of further help:thumbdown:

[Eddy_t]

Well I guess not but did find a karting site where they said they were soldered in place - some are not supposed to be changed - one reason I got one powered with a PP3 9volt battery - nice and simple!

 

Sorry - can't be of further help:thumbdown:

 

No worries spud, fixed it now, pried off front to reveal some tiny screws, undid those and pulled out the internals, batteries were SPOT WELDED on the tach, pried them off and replaced with some CR2025's (the old ones were 2032) and reassembled, seems to function fine, so had to figure a way to test, couldn't be starting the saws now (next door has a baby) so used the dremel, seems to be working so I will test tomorrow

 

 

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[Rich2484]

Got a strange engine problem.

 

It's a Honda "copy" engine. It runs perfectly, but, takes a good two minutes to warm up. Have to start it on full then half choke, then leave it on half choke and half throttle for about 2mins then it will suddenly kick into life, and run perfectly. Just the starting that's an issue. Fur stoke buy the way. Ohv. Tried changing the carb for a known good one but no difference, fuel not an issue and the vacuum line from valve cover to air box is working as it should, put finger over hole and can feel it sucking.

 

So its just annoying more than anything, had another exact same engine another log splitter and it doesn't do this. Any ideas, don't want to start poking around the governer too much.

[GardenKit]

Got a strange engine problem.

 

It's a Honda "copy" engine. It runs perfectly, but, takes a good two minutes to warm up. Have to start it on full then half choke, then leave it on half choke and half throttle for about 2mins then it will suddenly kick into life, and run perfectly. Just the starting that's an issue. Fur stoke buy the way. Ohv. Tried changing the carb for a known good one but no difference, fuel not an issue and the vacuum line from valve cover to air box is working as it should, put finger over hole and can feel it sucking.

 

So its just annoying more than anything, had another exact same engine another log splitter and it doesn't do this. Any ideas, don't want to start poking around the governer too much.

 

There is a tendancy for these engines to need a bit of choke, just like the Honda it is copied from.

 

But yours does seem a bit extreme Rich.

 

It has to be a fuel/air issue, so a bit weak, but how?

 

If you had not tried another (known) carb, I would have said you had a semi blocked main jet or nozzle and suggested removing both, as well as removing the idle mix screw and pilot jet plug and giving a good boil up in the US. This normally fixes it.

 

But, assuming your 'known' carb is good, then check the gaskets between carb and block, and also the plastic insulator. It may be cracked allowing some air in.

 

It could also be sloppy valve clearances. This would reduce the amount of time the inlet valve is open, and reduce the amount of air/fuel mix sucked in per cycle. As the valves warm up the clearance will reduce slightly and the valve stay open a little longer.

 

Hope these thoughts may help just a little.

[Eddie@aspen]

There is a tendancy for these engines to need a bit of choke, just like the Honda it is copied from.

 

But yours does seem a bit extreme Rich.

 

It has to be a fuel/air issue, so a bit weak, but how?

 

If you had not tried another (known) carb, I would have said you had a semi blocked main jet or nozzle and suggested removing both, as well as removing the idle mix screw and pilot jet plug and giving a good boil up in the US. This normally fixes it.

 

But, assuming your 'known' carb is good, then check the gaskets between carb and block, and also the plastic insulator. It may be cracked allowing some air in.

 

It could also be sloppy valve clearances. This would reduce the amount of time the inlet valve is open, and reduce the amount of air/fuel mix sucked in per cycle. As the valves warm up the clearance will reduce slightly and the valve stay open a little longer.

 

Hope these thoughts may help just a little.

It's a long shot, but try a new spark plug, plugs can give all sorts of funny running faults and it's a quick one to to try before major time is spent.

[Ray1]

Belle wacker plate with a honda gx100 engine, Guy says its leaking oil from were the governor arm connects to the bottom of the engine, there is oil on the plate but dosn't look like its coming from there so we steam cleaned it and waited for some oil to leak out. Nothing. Unscrewed the oil filler cap and a black petrol / oil mix flowed out all over the clean machine and all over the bench. Obviously petrol is getting into the oil. The fuel tank is bone dry so suspect carb issues. Will pop the carb off and give it a once over, oil and fuel and see what happens.

[spudulike]

Got the keyway formed in the 066 Red Eye flywheel, got it back on to the machine and it isn't a bad fit - fairly snug.

 

A rough estimate is 28 degrees advance - 5 more than standard.

 

Next job is to mark up a timing plate to sit above the flywheel with the degrees of advance on it and then strobe it to see what ignition advance I have! Over 28 degrees and I may have a problem:blushing:

 

A little bit hit and miss and this saw may just wrench my arm out of it's socket but wil find out soon enough.

 

Have learn't a little more and that is always good:thumbup:

[Rich2484]

Ok garden kit and eddy. I will try both. It's a new engine so not really willing to start stripping it all down as under warranty. Just annoying. I did think about valve clearence but dismissed it as the problem, will check them now and try and find the spec for them.

 

Picked up an echo saw tonight on way home. Started it up and its running fast idle. Pull throttle and it dies out. Not looked at it because I'm home and can't be bothered as yet.

It has been to a dealer and they have said the wrong fuel has been used, I'm thinking different as the owner of saw is not stupid. So going to reduce the idle speed and clean out and check the carb as first try, while I'm there will vac/pressure test aswell.

 

He wants me to do a full report on it so he can try something with the dealer. Not sure what he will achieve but them he his Irish (nice bloke but the way)

 

Garden kit, I'm looking for a service kit for a Briggs and Stratton 20hp engine. Oil, fuel, filter etc.

[wisecobandit]

Sounds like everyones been busy. I finally got around to starting up a 1985 husqy 50 ive just put a new ported top end, new coil and stripped and cleaned and new gaskets etc in the carb. Bought as a non running project and not used in over 10 years.

Sounds soooo bloody quiet think it may need a muffler mod, hardly hear it running!