What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

Got a bit of a project on, purchased a "Red Eye" 066 Stihl with a dodgy coil, fitted a standard one off a MS650 but the timing is picked up some 30 deg later on the new coil so all I got was some farty sounding backfires from a very retarded ignition timing.

 

The parts are obsolete so managed to get it running badly by rough setting the flywheel with no key in place and a strobe timing light - this managed to show me where the saw was actually sparking.

 

I am now going to work out with the aid of a degree wheel, what ignition advance the MS650 is running at and then will attempt to replicate the advance on the 066.

 

I plan to knife edge the crank key and then line the flywheel up and bolt it down hard so the key actually forms a new "V" slot and then clean and smooth with rifler files.

 

Very long winded but reckon it will be successful in the end- just hope the saws ignition is close enough as getting it too retarded and it won't cut for...brown stuff and too advanced and it will melt the piston!

 

I will finally mark the flywheel and work out what advance it is running at idle and flat out to make sure we are around the 16 deg advance at idle and around 30 degs flat out.

 

In a way it is nice to be doing something a little bit different!

[Eddy_t]

Hot compression of my 236! Spud would this stop it idling?

 

Picture isn't very good, gauge reads 210psi!

 

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Edited March 25, 2013 by Eddy_t

[Eddy_t]

Right, got it idling, but a bit lean, on this saw its more like 2 turns out, checked and re-checked comp, still 210! The 385 is only 180psi!

 

 

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[GardenKit]

Got a bit of a project on, purchased a "Red Eye" 066 Stihl with a dodgy coil, fitted a standard one off a MS650 but the timing is picked up some 30 deg later on the new coil so all I got was some farty sounding backfires from a very retarded ignition timing.

 

The parts are obsolete so managed to get it running badly by rough setting the flywheel with no key in place and a strobe timing light - this managed to show me where the saw was actually sparking.

 

I am now going to work out with the aid of a degree wheel, what ignition advance the MS650 is running at and then will attempt to replicate the advance on the 066.

 

I plan to knife edge the crank key and then line the flywheel up and bolt it down hard so the key actually forms a new "V" slot and then clean and smooth with rifler files.

 

Very long winded but reckon it will be successful in the end- just hope the saws ignition is close enough as getting it too retarded and it won't cut for...brown stuff and too advanced and it will melt the piston!

 

I will finally mark the flywheel and work out what advance it is running at idle and flat out to make sure we are around the 16 deg advance at idle and around 30 degs flat out.

 

In a way it is nice to be doing something a little bit different!

We know you like a challenge Steve, good luck on this one.

[GardenKit]

I had a disgruntled customer turn up today with a Hayter mower in his car.

 

We had serviced it in February. Apparently he has used it twice since service, the first time it ran perfectly, but towards the end of the second cut it started to cough and splutter, then it stopped and would not start.

 

So he was not happy. ' paid good money for that service, I expect better' he said.

 

So I checked the fuel tank. EMPTY.

 

'Oh' he said, " I did not check that because it said on your bill that you had filled it"

 

Managed not to laugh while he was here, but let loose when he had gone:lol:

[Rich2484]

Hot compression of my 236! Spud would this stop it idling?

[ATTACH]118760[/ATTACH]

 

Picture isn't very good, gauge reads 210psi!

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

No that pressure will not stop idle but rather the opposite. You can have too much compression, but you will be talking in the area of over 300 psi.

 

If you think it's too lean then there is something else going on. First up air filter. Second up crank case oil seals and gasket (pressure vac test) and finally clean the carb out.

 

 

Good luck with it spud, I've been pondering over unavailable parts and interchangeable flywheels in the same aspect before. Keep us posted mate.

[Eddy_t]

No that pressure will not stop idle but rather the opposite. You can have too much compression, but you will be talking in the area of over 300 psi.

 

If you think it's too lean then there is something else going on. First up air filter. Second up crank case oil seals and gasket (pressure vac test) and finally clean the carb out.

 

 

Good luck with it spud, I've been pondering over unavailable parts and interchangeable flywheels in the same aspect before. Keep us posted mate.

 

I'm trying to retune it, when I cleaned carb and reset it to factory settings the screws were about 2 1/2 - 3 turns out, there is no gasket, it's like a rubbery glue, I assume that's the liquid gasket spud mentions, I've just gotta retune it now, probably shouldn't have messed with the carb as much, got it idling now, I will just have to rich it up a bit and go from there

 

Oh and air filter needs a damn good clean!

 

 

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[Ryan]

Been lurking a long time but decided its time to start and get a few posts up. On my workbench this week is a husky 345 for rebuild after bearing failure on clutch side. A vintage Stihl 041 with no spark. Turned out to be just dirty points. Cleaned up well and fitted a new genuine 25" bar and chisel chain. And finally an 025 with erratic idle trouble. I have done carb, washed and new kit including needle. Re gaped coil, checked muffler and compression. Pulled her down and found crank seals very loose fit on shaft so ordered some new ones and that should cure that. All 3 will be for sale by nest week and start again fresh.

[afro reductions]

Hello there on my bench (or rather living room floor with an annoyed girlfriend glaring at me and complaining about smells ), I have an ms 200t which has sheared from the bottom of the handle ( the annular buffer ), i have tried to take the saw apart but got caught up with reassembling ( a previously working handle ), So back to square 1 do I have too completely disassemble the saw to get to the buffer ? ( http://bricomeca.free.fr/Stihl/stihl%20MS200T%20IPL.pdf ), If so how do i do this, do i need to remove the clutch and get at it from that side?

 

Also i have a BG 86 blower with a sticky fuel pump button that won't run on full revs, guessing fuel line issue after attempting dissassemble, similar question which side do i start on do i need to block the piston to remove bits?

 

Any help would be much appreciated , or if you think im out of my depth let me know, but as monies and time are of concern, I am relluctant to spend £35 just for a diagnosis ( local shops standard rate! ).

 

Thanks for looking .

[Rich2484]

Hello there on my bench (or rather living room floor with an annoyed girlfriend glaring at me and complaining about smells ), I have an ms 200t which has sheared from the bottom of the handle ( the annular buffer ), i have tried to take the saw apart but got caught up with reassembling ( a previously working handle ), So back to square 1 do I have too completely disassemble the saw to get to the buffer ? ( http://bricomeca.free.fr/Stihl/stihl%20MS200T%20IPL.pdf ), If so how do i do this, do i need to remove the clutch and get at it from that side?

 

Also i have a BG 86 blower with a sticky fuel pump button that won't run on full revs, guessing fuel line issue after attempting dissassemble, similar question which side do i start on do i need to block the piston to remove bits?

 

Any help would be much appreciated , or if you think im out of my depth let me know, but as monies and time are of concern, I am relluctant to spend £35 just for a diagnosis ( local shops standard rate! ).

 

Thanks for looking .

 

I'm lost. Do you mean the buffer by the bottom of the pull start or the bottom of the carb area???

 

If its the pull start assembly just remove that and use a 19mm open ended spanner to remove it.

 

If its carb area, remove the bottom mount above with stihl screw driver in hole in handle, remove the chain cover and remove the stihl screw in buffer, then remove the earth screw,

Remove the carb and the spacers, one round on in boot and one around the boot, undo stihl screw in the buffer under the carb area, pull handle back and up ensuring the boot stays in place and doesn't come out with handle.

 

Where abouts are you by the way. Could be a techy round the corner.