What's on your bench today?

[morten]

The spring is driven by the clutch drum. The spring drives a spur gear (which sits below the clutch) and this drives the planet gear (that's the big gear you mentioned earlier). The oil pump site below this gear and is driven by it.

 

The clutch is screwed onto the end of the crankshaft (left hand thread) so spins at the same speed as the engine. The clutch opens out (gets bigger) when it spins and so grips the clutch drum, which turns the spring, the spur and the planet gear and so pumps oil.

 

Or in the case of this saw, doesn't.

Of course this also drives the chain around and the two are linked really, if the chain is moving you need oil ...

 

The saw (as supplied) is quite dangerous, in my opinion, although the seller doesn't agree

 

I'm not sure how this was damaged, at a guess I would say that the saw was used extensively with a smaller bar (it was sold with a clean 47" Duro) and to stop the chain spinning on tickover the brake was applied. Often. This caused the clutch to get hot, so hot that it turned blue and melted the spur gear....

 

Mechanical sympathy is difficult to teach some folk

 

It could also be that some weak clutch springs made the chain creep, and the user applied the chain break to stop it. Or someone didn't know about the chain break (it happens), and tried to gun it, to make the chain move

[spudulike]

Hi all. I assume this has been tackled before on the threads. But I don't know to use really for words in the search. A friend has a husky 235 with the daft tamperproof carb screws. The saw is running silly and not behaving. Is their a simple fix. My thoughts are hacksaw a groove spin them out and get new screws. Any ideas? Feel free to pm me or put it on here for others to benefit. I do have photos to show saw and model numbers. Will put them up later if needed when I get back.

 

If the saw has a fast idle and is holding on to revs when the throttle is closed, it may be an air leak.

 

The carb can be adjusted with a splined adjuster but personally I take the screws out and slot them carefully as you suggest.

 

You can get them out with the plastic part of a crimp connector:thumbup:

[GardenKit]

The carb can be adjusted with a splined adjuster but personally I take the screws out and slot them carefully as you suggest.

 

You can get them out with the plastic part of a crimp connector:thumbup:

 

How many more times, Steve?

Buy the bloody tool:biggrin:

[spudulike]

How many more times, Steve?

Buy the bloody tool:biggrin:

 

Aw...piss off Barrie:001_tt2:

 

1) I'm too tight

2) I dont like home owner saws

3) They should have fitted slotted adjusters

 

All the above or choose the most accurate:blushing:

 

Can we get you back on about Aspen or clean benches:lol:

[Goaty]

:thumbup1:Whoops, thanks Spud. Got to agree with all reasons.

 

Sorry Barrie all these "proper tools" are a load of unnesassary clutter .

[spudulike]

My birthday is coming up in four months Barrie - are you going to surprise me with something special for the workshop....now what do I need:confused1:

 

I didn't mean to snap......honest - those adjusters get right up my nose - silly things - the tools are stupidly expensive as well -£10

[Ray1]

I made one once, unscrew the needle, mould some metal putty around the splines and push a flat screwdriver into the other end, once its nearly set remove the putty then leave it to set hard, shape it with emory so it fits through the carb grommet and then super glue the screwdriver into the the slot. It lasted a few years then i bought the proper tool.

[spudulike]

I made one once, unscrew the needle, mould some metal putty around the splines and push a flat screwdriver into the other end, once its nearly set remove the putty then leave it to set hard, shape it with emory so it fits through the carb grommet and then super glue the screwdriver into the the slot. It lasted a few years then i bought the proper tool.

 

I am hoping Barrie will get that fed up with me, he may send me one:blushing:

[Mik the Miller]

It could also be that some weak clutch springs made the chain creep, and the user applied the chain break to stop it. Or someone didn't know about the chain break (it happens), and tried to gun it, to make the chain move

 

Both are scary ...

 

Here are some more pics of the old and new oil drive spur sprocket (from an MS880)

Edited April 11, 2014 by Mik the Miller

[Eddy_t]

I am hoping Barrie will get that fed up with me, he may send me one:blushing:

 

 

They're £10 online, I'm sure you can manage that!

 

 

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