Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

What's on your bench today?


spudulike

Recommended Posts

We had an MS170 with a broke chainbrake handle and a 260 with a blown piston. So we took the chainbrake handle off the 260 and put it on the 170. Bit of plastic cutting and it works. Will get a picture of it. Think of Jeremy Beadles hand and ya get the idea lol.

 

Not being funny but you may like to remember the chain brake handle has a safety function and you may have compromised the function of it.

 

What I am saying is that if others use this saw - think of how you would feel if it had failed and hurt someone - think the spare part wil be under £25!

 

Others may have their own views

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

On my bench today was a Husky 235 xtorq I picked up for £10 siezed. Turned out a crank bearing had failed and killed the seal hence the sieze. £30 on New piston (Golf as I couldn't find anything better) and bearings and it seems to run well :biggrin:

 

Next problems:

Partner P100 dies once warm. Piston looks in good condition looking through both ports and rings aren't stuck. I don't think it's loosing compression when hot as I can drop start without the sissy button cold but it tries to rip my arm off after it dies. I'm wondering if this could just be way too rich?

 

A Mitox which doesn't like to rev from idle, will rev and run ok by feathering the throttle a bit first, wondering if this is just lean on the low circiut?

 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my bench today was a Husky 235 xtorq I picked up for £10 siezed. Turned out a crank bearing had failed and killed the seal hence the sieze. £30 on New piston (Golf as I couldn't find anything better) and bearings and it seems to run well :biggrin:

 

Next problems:

Partner P100 dies once warm. Piston looks in good condition looking through both ports and rings aren't stuck. I don't think it's loosing compression when hot as I can drop start without the sissy button cold but it tries to rip my arm off after it dies. I'm wondering if this could just be way too rich?

 

A Mitox which doesn't like to rev from idle, will rev and run ok by feathering the throttle a bit first, wondering if this is just lean on the low circiut?

 

Cheers

 

Sounds like a timing fault on the partner if you're getting kickback when warm.

 

Mitox sounds definitely like its lean on idle

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like a timing fault on the partner if you're getting kickback when warm.

 

Mitox sounds definitely like its lean on idle

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

It seems to pull over ok if I remember the decomp button? Is there an easy way to test if it's timing though? The coil gap is at 0.2mm. I'll check the flywheel/key tomorrow.

 

Hopefully easy fix for the Mitox then :thumbup: Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like it may be a clutch problem rather than an idle problem. If the clutch is not disengaging then you wont get an idle.

Check clutch springs and shoes.

 

What are they like to change Barry?

Ive just ordered new clutch springs for an hs75. The ipl makes it look quite a straight forward job but is it as simple as it looks is the question :confused1:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are they like to change Barry?

Ive just ordered new clutch springs for an hs75. The ipl makes it look quite a straight forward job but is it as simple as it looks is the question :confused1:

Its very simple. The Stihl is a bit more difficult to split than my favourite Tanaka machines but they are still easy enough to do. Just take the engine off the gearbox, keep on taking screws out until it comes apart!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its very simple. The Stihl is a bit more difficult to split than my favourite Tanaka machines but they are still easy enough to do. Just take the engine off the gearbox, keep on taking screws out until it comes apart!

Looking at the ipl it looks almost a case of just taking out 3 bolts and pulling the engine out. :laugh1:

In theory its never going to be that simple tho as we all know. Just wasn't sure if there was any sneaky bolts that go up from the gearbox side or whether its all downward bolts so to speak..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It seems to pull over ok if I remember the decomp button? Is there an easy way to test if it's timing though? The coil gap is at 0.2mm. I'll check the flywheel/key tomorrow.

 

Hopefully easy fix for the Mitox then :thumbup: Thanks.

 

Coil gap is too tight by the sounds, try increasing it to .3mm, and check the flywheel key!

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.