MS880 + 3/8th

[Blackbriarwoods]

What would I need to get an MS880 to run a 3/8th chain?

 

Would like to be able to make chains from the same reel as all my other saws run. Want to use a 25" bar as well as the 36".

 

What sprocket would be the best?

 

Anything else I should change/know?

 

Thanks people

[spudulike]

This is my usual port of call - OREGON® Hand Held Chain Saw Replacement Parts

 

Oregon usually make good quality kit - you will need a 3/8 sprocket - either spur or rim drive, a 3/8 bar or solid nose bar where either will fit and a suitable 3/8 chain - better ask others as to what combination works best out in the field as I don't have cutting experience of these big uns!

[agg221]

This is a known combination for milling - to reduce the kerf a bit.

 

You also need to consider chain gauge - is your reel (and your other bars) 0.063" (1.6mm) or narrower? If you're using 0.063" then you should be OK. If not, you run a risk of snapping chains if you are using a lot of the bar length and cutting efficiently (max. torque). You can drop the top end revs a bit and leave the rakers a bit long so you get less bite, but that kind of defeats the point of of using the MS880 in the first place.

 

You might get away with 0.058" (1.3mm) but I doubt you would get away with 0.050" (1.1mm). The only saving grace is that when the chain snaps it's likely to be safely buried in a very big log!

 

Alec

[geoff]

Good post Alec!

[spudulike]

Good post Alec!

 

Yup - Alec plays with the big stuff:thumbup:

[Rob D]

You can get a rim and sprocket set up running a 3/8 rim easily enough.

 

Depending on bar length you want choice wise you can get a stihl ES bar and change the nose from a .404 to a 3/8 (30", 36", 59"), Or do the same with the more expensive Cannon bars (30",36" up to 60") or GB (50").

 

From a milling point of view I milled for a while with a 36" Cannon running 3/8 but apart from the slightly narrower kerf I found it no faster. I think this is down to the fact there are a few more cutters hitting the wood with 3/8 chain and may be the chip clearance isn't as efficient as .404....

 

.... but could just as easily have been my sharpening!

[Rob D]

Oh and you can also run a 25" bar (Stihl ES) as well. I have all of these in stock. PM me for prices.

[Blackbriarwoods]

This is a known combination for milling - to reduce the kerf a bit.

 

You also need to consider chain gauge - is your reel (and your other bars) 0.063" (1.6mm) or narrower? If you're using 0.063" then you should be OK. If not, you run a risk of snapping chains if you are using a lot of the bar length and cutting efficiently (max. torque). You can drop the top end revs a bit and leave the rakers a bit long so you get less bite, but that kind of defeats the point of of using the MS880 in the first place.

 

You might get away with 0.058" (1.3mm) but I doubt you would get away with 0.050" (1.1mm). The only saving grace is that when the chain snaps it's likely to be safely buried in a very big log!

 

Alec

 

Thanks Alec, the chain I have is the 1.6mm

[Blackbriarwoods]

You can get a rim and sprocket set up running a 3/8 rim easily enough.

 

Depending on bar length you want choice wise you can get a stihl ES bar and change the nose from a .404 to a 3/8 (30", 36", 59"), Or do the same with the more expensive Cannon bars (30",36" up to 60") or GB (50").

 

From a milling point of view I milled for a while with a 36" Cannon running 3/8 but apart from the slightly narrower kerf I found it no faster. I think this is down to the fact there are a few more cutters hitting the wood with 3/8 chain and may be the chip clearance isn't as efficient as .404....

 

.... but could just as easily have been my sharpening!

 

Thanks Rob, would the rim and sprocket just be off the shelf from the local dealer, are they a standard size item (same as a ms660)? Looking at the 25" bar and chain, pm sent

[tree_beard]

You also need to consider chain gauge -

 

You might get away with 0.058" (1.3mm) but I doubt you would get away with 0.050" (1.1mm). The only saving grace is that when the chain snaps it's likely to be safely buried in a very big log!

 

Alec

 

i dont really see a correlation between chain gauge and strength of chain... the gauge is only the thickness of the drive link between the bar rails, the actual chain link part of the drive link is the same thickness across the board. all drive links are born equal and the lower half is ground down to the three different gauges.

 

you may experience more tooth wear on a smaller gauge chain, due to thinner metal contacting the sprocket. but the chain shouldnt be any more prone to snapping.

 

my 2p...