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Got a 200tdi engined landy? This may be interesting.


Pigglet
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I've had Tdi'd landy's for years but never really got round to trying to tune them as such.

 

My current disco is pretty flat off idle so after a bit of searching I found this:

http://www.stonefisk.com/doc-arc/def_man/ThermoGuard_Tdi_Tuning_Rev.2.pdf

 

I've just adjusted the "Diaphragm rest position" as described in section 3 on Page 8.

I kid not it's the biggest improvement in performance to any standard landy I've ever made.......... Even better, it took about 5 minutes from pulling up on the drive prior to starting the job to going for a test run.

 

I'm going to re-furb my injectors so will tweak the pump timing and other fueling settings then but for starters I'm well impressed with the improvement i pull-away performance this has achieved:thumbup1:

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be CAREFUL i was shown how to by a engine builder when i was winch challenging and he was a sponser at the time. i was runing 200tdi stroked to 2.8 liters 38 48 valves nissan sunny GTR turbo full face intercooler and 70mm exhaust did it for five years and blew up three engines.:001_rolleyes:

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Tweaking old engines is like giving your granny a pair of running shoes, she will do it but not for long.

 

Back in the day we used to chuck rover V8’s in old air portable series land rovers, great fun but we did get through a lot of half shafts and gearboxes.

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whats this do to your fuel use fella? im already running my 90 on Muds so mpg is terrible and its done 165k-thinkin this might finish her off!:biggrin: cheers

 

Too early to say at the moment, only just done it but I'll keep an eye on it.

 

Tweaking old engines is like giving your granny a pair of running shoes, she will do it but not for long.

 

Back in the day we used to chuck rover V8’s in old air portable series land rovers, great fun but we did get through a lot of half shafts and gearboxes.

 

:laugh1:

My intention is not too try and get maximumum power out of it, rather set it up correctly as it should of left the factory.

 

My interpretation is that the adjustment I have made has simply added a bit more fuel at the bottom end of the rev range and the result is a negation of what on my particular disco was horrendous lag before the turbo boost got things moving. It's made pulling out and junctions considerably safer.

It's made no difference whatsoever to performance above 2K RPM.

I read an article on landy zone that inferred that injector performance tends to drop off quite significantly when they have seen over 100K miles.

Replacing the injector nozzles restores the original spray pattern which restores both performance and efficiency.

Todays fiddle I see as compensating in some way for the drop in injector performance and the adjustment will probably need to be re-visited as and when I re-furb the injectors.

What I'm trying to do is restore some of the original performance and driveability, not tune the nuts off it to out drag the missus 3ltr hi-lux. I have no intention of upping turbo boost or altering max fueling settings.:thumbup:

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be CAREFUL i was shown how to by a engine builder when i was winch challenging and he was a sponser at the time. i was runing 200tdi stroked to 2.8 liters 38 48 valves nissan sunny GTR turbo full face intercooler and 70mm exhaust did it for five years and blew up three engines.:001_rolleyes:

 

I bet that was poky for a landy!

I appreciate that there's no such thing as a free lunch but I'm just trying to make it more driveable at the bottom end and mid range by restoring the performance of worn components and taking a bit of time to set things up properly.

Funnily enough I was talking to a mate at work last night about it and he said he was told to "tweak that screw on the back of the pump that alters the fueling" when he took his 110 for test.

His head gasket went a couple of weeks after it's last MOT then the turbo seals expired shortly after that.

I guess it send his exhaust gas temp sky high and he didn't realise.

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dunno about the granny in running shoes comment, maybe for a landy engine but people tune high miles Cummins quite alot with few failures.

I've turned the pump up on mine, more pre boost fuel, #0 plate = full fuel through entire rev range with foot to the floor as the rack no longer touches the plate and star wheel adjustment changes reaction of pump to boost by changing spring tension, more fuel makes it smokey but goes well! Oh and boost turned up to 35psi. similar set ups dyno at 250-300 HP at wheels and 650 ft/lbs +. MPG has improved.

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