bandsaw blades

[wills-mill]

While we are on the subject of band saw blades I would like to pick the collective brain a little.

 

I am the proud owner of a pair of band saw wheels and blade guide. I took them out of a large Stenner resaw that was bound for the scrap yard. I intend building a mobile band saw using these parts.

 

The engineering part is simple enough the questions I have are about blade length and type. Clearly you guys with proprietary machines just order the appropriate part but where would I go to get a blade made to length

 

Is there a particular tooth pattern for green timber?

 

Is there a correlation between tooth pattern and blade speed and what sort of speed do I need to run the blade at?

 

Thanks

 

Andy

 

 

The blades are made up of saw strip cut from a reel and welded, so no need to worry about the size that your blade ends up.... Although it's obviously easier and cheaper for blade firms to make up a dozen or so bands at a particular spec.

 

I can't remember what blade speed is best, I think it differs slightly for narrow band mills (1 1/4 to 1 1/2in mills) and big old wide bands (3in upwards). Probably best to talk to Stenner, they are a helpful bunch, they will be able to give you an idea what the resaw ran at, it's best to stick to that I would think.

 

Tooth pattern (spacing) seems to be governed by the feed speed you want to work at* and the width of timber you are likely to cut.

What varies for differing density of timber is the tooth shape (profile) and mainly the hook angle- the hook is more pronounced for softer timbers and lessened for harder or mor difficult, but the feed speed then usually has to drop. On Wood Mizer machines I think they run something like 10 degress forward hook for softwoods, 8 deg for all round and 7 degrees for hard timbers and frozen logs....

 

 

 

 

*and that is governed by:

a) power available

b) thickness and rigidity of the blade

c) quality of finish wanted

[Brushcutter]

While we are on the subject of band saw blades I would like to pick the collective brain a little.

 

I am the proud owner of a pair of band saw wheels and blade guide. I took them out of a large Stenner resaw that was bound for the scrap yard. I intend building a mobile band saw using these parts.

 

The engineering part is simple enough the questions I have are about blade length and type. Clearly you guys with proprietary machines just order the appropriate part but where would I go to get a blade made to length

 

Is there a particular tooth pattern for green timber?

 

Is there a correlation between tooth pattern and blade speed and what sort of speed do I need to run the blade at?

 

Thanks

 

Andy

 

How big are the fly wheels? The ones on our Stenner 41 are 3' as are the ones on the Robinsons resaw.

[treequip]

How big are the fly wheels? The ones on our Stenner 41 are 3' as are the ones on the Robinsons resaw.

 

I don’t have an exact measurement but 3 foot sounds about right.

[Brushcutter]

I don’t have an exact measurement but 3 foot sounds about right.

 

I'll have a look at the rpm of our motor on monday if i get a chance.

[treequip]

The blades are made up of saw strip cut from a reel and welded, so no need to worry about the size that your blade ends up.... Although it's obviously easier and cheaper for blade firms to make up a dozen or so bands at a particular spec.

 

I can't remember what blade speed is best, I think it differs slightly for narrow band mills (1 1/4 to 1 1/2in mills) and big old wide bands (3in upwards). Probably best to talk to Stenner, they are a helpful bunch, they will be able to give you an idea what the resaw ran at, it's best to stick to that I would think.

 

Tooth pattern (spacing) seems to be governed by the feed speed you want to work at* and the width of timber you are likely to cut.

What varies for differing density of timber is the tooth shape (profile) and mainly the hook angle- the hook is more pronounced for softer timbers and lessened for harder or mor difficult, but the feed speed then usually has to drop. On Wood Mizer machines I think they run something like 10 degress forward hook for softwoods, 8 deg for all round and 7 degrees for hard timbers and frozen logs....

 

 

 

 

*and that is governed by:

a) power available

b) thickness and rigidity of the blade

c) quality of finish wanted

 

Power will be from a hydraulic motor so there will be plenty ‘O torque. The wheels are big aluminium jobbies so the bend radius will accommodate thicker blades, and a variety of teeth will cover different finishes.

 

I will give Stenner a call but I am sure the first thing they will ask is a model number, which is where it will get interesting.

[Brushcutter]

Did it look like that? Thats a Stenner 41 if it's any help. Stenner will know what that one is as i've got parts for it from them. Helpful bunch.

[treequip]

Hard to tell from the scale, it didn’t have a log deck, perhaps not quite that big but getting there.

[wills-mill]

I will give Stenner a call but I am sure the first thing they will ask is a model number, which is where it will get interesting.

 

Measure up the wheels, then Stenner will be happy... no doubt there's a rule of thumb for blade speed, might be a bit different for the newer pitless resaws, but the old growlers like the Stenner VHMs and Robinson EFT are probably all the same.

 

Brushcutter- the motor rpm will be there to suit the electric motor no doubt (1500rpm to 2000rpm?), then the revs will be geared down through the belting to give a much slower rev at the wheels. A 3ft diameter wheel will travel a blade 9.425 ft every time it rotates, so you'd end up with a blade speed of 14,000ft per min or 235 ft per sec if the wheels were driven directly at 1500rpm motor speed.

That's 72.5 metres a sec, which makes a chainsaw look pretty lazy....

 

Stenner or one of the woodworking firms like Daltons would know what's required

[difflock]

A wee aside "Jonny Maun/Mon?" was the alcoholic blacksmith who lived in a hovel cum blacksmiths forge very near Drenagh Sawmill, Limavady.

And brazed the big bandsaw blades for the sawmill.

And was apparently gifted at it.

This is if I am correctly recalling a morsel of info related by my father some 45 years ago.

When I idly asked "does anyone live there" as we drove past one day.

Marcus

[gensetsteve]

so expensive for me to buy them now anyone made there own welder ?

can import the band blade in 100m reals for just over a £1 a meter so its defo worht wile any ideas ?

 

 

ricky

 

I cant remember where I saw it but there was a sharpening band welding setting serious machine for sale looked a complete steal if you needed one. It was either on here or one of the auction sites. It was about a month ago. I was tempted to buy it and I have no use for it and would not know how to work it.