Starting problems on a Vermeer grinder

[Jan]

hi arbtalkers,

 

my SC352 Diesel is having some serious starting problems, here is the story:

cold starting has never been an issue, but re-starting the warm engine was sometimes a pain in the ass. engine turned over and it spit out lots of unburned diesel but just wouldnt start. after a 30min break or so it finally started on the 3rd turn. alternator + battery + 5sec oil pressure button relais + glow plugs + electric connections OK

this problem has occured the last week.

now it decided to stop working completely and wouldnt even perform a cold start. even ignition spray(?) didnt work, so i am thinking of poor engine compression. but i havent noticed a change in the exhaust gas or anything which would direct towards a broken valve..

 

i'd appreciate any other ideas:001_smile:

[Pat Ferrett]

What engine has the grinder got ?

[b101uk]

If it’s the 3 cylinder Daihatsu turbo engine,

 

Check the function of the oil pressure switch and the glow-plug on/oil pressure override button (the button that you have to hold down for ~5sec after starting - so oil pressure has time to build).

[PeteB]

That engine had serious issues on the 352, lots of broken internals etc. Many people think that the constant movement put pressure on oil flow which lead to some failures but that should not stop it from starting. Is the fuel rack opening up, is fuel getting through to the injectors?

[Jan]

oil pressure + glow switch OK

all 3 diesel injectors work

 

i am running out of ideas and two local dealers are busy for the next 10 days.

also i am concerned about the engine unwilling to start even with start aid spray

[PeteB]

Are you sure that the fuel solenoid is working properly and that the fuel rack is opening up when the solenoid works? It sounds more like a fuel delivery problem and not an electrical problem to me.

 

If you think it might be compression issues, then do a compression test. Was it running very roughly when it last worked? If it had a dropped valve then the engine would sound very different and you would feel the lack of power.

Edited April 26, 2011 by PeteB
More questions.

[b101uk]

air being sucked in with the diesel fuel (pipe fittings/filters etc). - also causing the fuel to run back to the tank when stopped.

 

The fuel hose (feed) between the fuel tank & filter or filter & injector pump is collapsing internally under suction (internally delaminating).

 

Fuel filter/s is excessively blocked.

 

(for eather of the above try setting up a simple gravity feed to the injector pump using a very clean can/bottle and a fine in-line filter with some new rubber pipe to protect the injector pump)

 

The fuel stop solenoid on the injector pump is fully working.

 

The air filter is extremely blocked with dust or a rag has been sucked in the air-intake.

 

Do a compression test. (internal engine damage)

 

The 1-way demand valves on the injector pump outputs (the pipe unions on the injector pump that each steel injector pipe fits to) has had the springs collapse inside so pressure is not being held in the steel injector pipe between strokes.

 

The woodruff key for the injector pump/timing gear/pully has sheared so the injector pump is slipping/out of timing, the same for crank/cam gear/pully.

 

The injector pump is internally worn/damaged so is not achieving a proper pressure.

[Jan]

i will check all that esp the fuel solenoid by tomorrow.

 

today i unscrewed the 3 injectors for a 3/4 turn or so and all of them were leaking during the starting procedure so i assumed that being okay.

 

again, thanks for your quick help!

[treequip]

Remote diagnosis is a tricky area but going of what you have described and the gradual onset of this makes me think the head gasket has blown between 2 of the cylinders

 

A compression test will be the decider

 

Andy

[JeremySmithers@EricHunter]

Having sold these machines in the past I am aware of a number of engine failures with that engine in dusty conditions. The normal problem is damaged bores and even cracks between the bores. Obviously this can lead to compression problems.

This was most common on 352`s where the usage was fairly high. In other words, someone who does stump grinding as their main job without any tree work. My thoughts have always been that the radiator gets blocked quite quickly and has no chance to clear, leading to overheating.

Find a good workshop with a camera to have a look down the bores before you do anything.

 

Regards

 

Jeremy