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Species/Length/Use of logs.


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On the big hardwoods with a big (proper) forwarder, 3m lengths, with our tractor/forwarding trailer 14foot poles, as said before, cut to suit the trailer. If I can get a couple or 3 x 14foot poles and another 8foot, I cut the 8foot rather than waste, these are then sold direct to people who wish to cut their own logs, as they are light enough for most to handle.

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OK, here are a load more bone questions for anyone who doesn't mind answering them!

 

What sort if tolerance do you work to? Does it vary much from job to job?

 

Do you mark out all the cuts before cutting? Or work from cut to cut?

 

How do you measure? Do you use a tape, or a gauging stick, or something else?

 

Thanks :)

Edited by john k
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OK, here are a load more bone questions for anyone who doesn't mind answering them!

 

What sort if tolerance do you work to? Does it vary much from job to job?

 

Do you mark out all the cuts before cutting? Or work from cut to cut?

 

How do you measure? Do you use a tape, or a gauging stick, or something else?

 

Thanks :)

 

Hi John,

 

I use a logging tape. Depending on the tree I either cut as I sned, or make "marker" cuts and then cut later. The logging tape is very handy, it is attached to your belt jobbie and then you stick the end into the butt and it measures as you sned/walk, so it makes the whole process very easy

 

 

:)

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OK, here are a load more bone questions for anyone who doesn't mind answering them!

 

What sort if tolerance do you work to? Does it vary much from job to job?

 

Do you mark out all the cuts before cutting? Or work from cut to cut?

 

How do you measure? Do you use a tape, or a gauging stick, or something else?

 

Thanks :)

 

If i'm cutting 7's say i'll make sure that i'll cut just over it so that once the its's 7' after the saw has gone through.

 

If the list says cut at x feet or x meters thats what the log has to be. Cut with a square ends too. I tend to mark my cuts as i walk up the stem and cross cut on the way back down to the butt to move onto the next one. I have a loggers tape. Their quite expensive but a must really for the woods.

 

On pro cutting jobs that has a spec of say 6' and your measuring say 2 chainsaw lengths and a bar. Your logs will be just too long or too short. That means when they get to the sawmill they will get rejected.

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If i'm cutting 7's say i'll make sure that i'll cut just over it so that once the its's 7' after the saw has gone through.

 

If the list says cut at x feet or x meters thats what the log has to be. Cut with a square ends too. I tend to mark my cuts as i walk up the stem and cross cut on the way back down to the butt to move onto the next one. I have a loggers tape. Their quite expensive but a must really for the woods.

 

On pro cutting jobs that has a spec of say 6' and your measuring say 2 chainsaw lengths and a bar. Your logs will be just too long or too short. That means when they get to the sawmill they will get rejected.

 

what ever length you are cutting always add 2"

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OK, here are a load more bone questions for anyone who doesn't mind answering them!

 

What sort if tolerance do you work to? Does it vary much from job to job?

 

Do you mark out all the cuts before cutting? Or work from cut to cut?

 

How do you measure? Do you use a tape, or a gauging stick, or something else?

 

Thanks :)

 

I use a logging tape and mark to size as i go, but as i mostly cut fire wood, so an inch either way does not matter. If i am cutting saw logs then i mark as i go, but the trees are re-measured prior to being cut after they are winched out.

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