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Which medium sized stump grinder?


Tree Man Tom
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Hi guys, we are looking to purchase a new stump grinder where i work, and would aprechiate any feedback and views on the following machines :001_smile:

 

Vermeer sc252

 

Rayco 1625/1635 junior

 

Predator 26/28

 

Bandit 2100

 

Carlton 4012

 

If you have any of the following machines i would be interested to hear how you find them, relability, spares avaliabilty etc... :thumbup1:

 

Also if you know of any machines like these for sale, or good deals going down then let me know :thumbup:

 

Thanks in advance.

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had a 252 [which was stolen before it was a yr old] and replaced it with a predator R28.. imo the predator is much more versatile machine with the variable width tracks.. and with the multi tip teeth makes for very quick changes..

 

Have you had any trouble with the predator? A friend has had a few problem with his.

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I have a 252, bought second hand off of vermeer five years ago. In that time I have replced the front bearings once and thats it. Maybe changed the oil and all filters once, and teeth of course but no other expense. It just runs and runs, but I dont use it that regularly, maybe 2-3 days a month.

 

Have just changed to green teeth, or yellow jackets vermeer call them. Seem to be an improvment, certainly easier to change.

 

Saw the new ones at the show with all the prescence sencers and that, not sure how keen I would be with that but its probably a good thing.

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i have a carlton sp4012n,its 29" wide & has out rigger wheels when needed,sandvik11 head on it ,all hydaulic ,very good machines ,purge bearings so the last much.much,manual clutch, longer thourally reccamend ,had a 252, this pisses on ,:001_smile:

 

 

p/s thers some pics of it in my albums ,re

Edited by Johny Walker
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I've had a predator for nearly 6 years (2500+ hours). Its not perfect, but imo there is nothing on the market that gets close to matching it for tight access and general mountain goat abilities. It will cruise through a standard house door and is very rarely beaten by side passages. If the cutting arm is unpinned from its ram and pulled up to nearly vertical it can manage a 90 degree turn in back alleys just 1 metre wide.

 

Issues:-

- As Nick states - get rid of the polydrive belt. A conversion to V belts is cheaper than 1 new polydrive belt!

 

- Had problems keeping the cutting head from coming loose - solved be recoiling the threads and putting lock nuts on the inside.

 

- Clutches have been moaned about by some users - that said I'm still on the original.

 

- Parts not a problem; the vast majority of wearing bits are generic.

 

- I never got on with the multi-tip system. Found the carbide tips just not tough enough for harsh conditions, particularly West Midlands hard pebble. After a bit of experimentation (drilling pocket holes in the multi-tip wheel) I settled on 1100 green teeth, just 8 cutters on the wheel, of which the lead 4 do virtually all the work being 19mm ahead of the other 4.

The wheel is not a wheel, but an off-square square (if that makes sense) which I had made for 150 quid. (60 for a slab of hardox type steel and 90 to get it laser cut). Using 'Chinese' copies at £4 a tooth (with resharpening), cutter costs, performance and reliability have ceased to be an issue).

 

- BUT, my first engine lasted just 2000 hours before the crank bearing at the drive pulley end wore out. Probably a combination of running the belt tighter than needed and the fact that there is no extra bearing support for the pulley. The engine suppliers said there should be as the lombardini engine is not designed for taking full power through v belts without extra support.

 

All in all, if I had to replace this machine; it would be with another one just the same.

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