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Posted

One of the tracks on my Timberwolf (VTR150) is going slower than the other if that is possible:laugh1:

 

It has had a complete hydro oil change, and the reduction hubs have had fresh gear oil, the stuff that came out was jet black with some shiny bits of metal in it!

 

So I think that new motors might be on my shopping list. Has anyone done this or is it trade in time?:confused1:

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Posted

would be worth detensioning the tracks and making sure the idler rollers and the bottom rollers are all free not seized and are round ! i had simillar on my mini digger found it to be worn idler bearings and sized flat bottm rollers !

 

get those tracks loose and off and clean the carrage out and see the state of the bearings :)

Posted

Cheers robbo and twisted. Will check the bearings when I jet wash all the crud off tomorrow and try and find a make on the motors and ring round some hydro people locally.

Posted

be carefull with the jet wash thats what knocked the idler bearings out on the mini the water gets pushed pasted the seals on the various bearings and then mud and grit and rust knacker the batterys !

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Took the tracks off and all the rollers and both idlers seem fine. Tiny bit off play in one idler but nothing worth changing imo. Will have to flow/pressure test the system whilst my local hydraulic people find out if I can get the Italian drive motors instead of TW orignals.

Any idea what flow and pressure I should be getting from the main pump?

IMG-20110309-00214.jpg.00fed7c235807930655e59882bdcb1dd.jpg

Posted

I think I'm right in saying that you have an expensive issue looming. Metal bits in the hydraulic circuit is terminal! Not only does that oil go around both tracks but it also goes around the chipper infeed. If you have metal frags then ALL pumps, motors, hoses, tanks valves in fact everything needs to be replaced/surgically cleaned before terminal damage occurs. Every time you turn the engine on - more damage is being done. STOP NOW!

Posted

if the motor has a case drain hose remove it and if there is an excess of oil coming thru it. that points to the rotor being worn and oil bypassing if the case drain goes thru a filter cut it open and see if there is metal inside it most final drives will have abit of metal kicking about in the oil check for chunky bits swap the hoses on the valve block to see if it transfers the problem check the pressures on relief jam a hammer in the track to get a relief valve to lift or chain the sprocket on to the chassis

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