What is the safest chainsaw for a beginner?

[JSFGreig]

That line is a very handy feature actually

 

Both stihl and husqvarna make very nice saws theres no two ways about it its all down to personal taste

 

i just find husqvarnas especially the xp range have a bit more grunt(ill stop talking now before this gets ugly)

 

 

My advice for what it's worth is buy the brand of saw that the nearest dealer sells then when you want chains/spares you don't have to go so far

 

^ that is a very good point

[dangerous brian]

Ms 180 cheap as chips and great to start with.

[dangerous brian]

I personaly recon the 346 could be a bit to much for a beginner,they have a knack of kicking back when you least expect it,that dont happen as much with a 180.

[scottythepinetree]

I reckon that power shouldn't be a factor for beginners as much as bar size. Smaller bar = less bar to keep an eye on. Listen to your instructor, especially the bit about keeping your thumb aroung the handle, don't over-reach with the saw, and keep a firm grip until you have applied the chainbrake. Kick-back back happens, nothing will stop that. Learning good habits so that when it happens you don't lose control is what counts IMO. If you find it happening a lot, change your practices with the saw.

 

Not for a second saying stick a 16" bar on an 880, but a beginner following correct work practices should be fine up to a 361 at least.

[WoodED]

I personaly recon the 346 could be a bit to much for a beginner,they have a knack of kicking back when you least expect it,that dont happen as much with a 180.

 

i started with an ms 260 and a 346xp

anysaw will kick back if used unsafly,

the ms 180 isnt a good idea in my opioion for daily use, ok fine for firewood everynow and then and around the garden, i think the best way to learn is out of your comfort zone.

i will tell you another briliant saw if you can get your hands on one, the rear handled ms200 would be ideal for what you need, they dont sell hem here in the uk anymore but they still sell them in france and they still have the CE markings on them

[ChrisSaunders]

Bear in mind that the chainsaw is one of the most dangerous machines man has invented, and all saws will kick back and bury themselves in your head if handled badly. As long as you have a good instructor the CS30 and 31 courses will make you a safe user. Don't fear chainsaws for their inherent ability to kill you, but respect them.

 

I used to have a 346 and they are cracking saws, but the best you could do is go to a good dealer who will let you pick up and perhaps even try cutting both the 346 and the ms260. One of them may 'fit' you better than the other. I don't see the point of heated handles when you should be wearing approved chainsaw gloves. Heated handles might be good in Canada in the winter but in the UK with spring and summer approaching while wearing gloves anyway? I think not.

 

When choosing saws I am guided by their power to weight ratios. I am not the biggest bloke so I like lighter saws as I get less tired using them. My current machine, soon to be replaced, is the Husky 262xp. With 4.8hp available out of just 11.6lbs (powerhead) it has a power to weight ratio which has never been bettered, yet it is nimble, agile, reliable, has great anti-vib, and a good one will run bars from 15 to 24 inches.

 

I'll write it again - all saws are inherently dangerous especially in untrained hands, but in my view semi pro or low power chainsaws are more dangerous than the others. Work all day with a gutless saw and you will get fatigued, and a tired chainsaw operator is a nasty accident waiting to happen. Conversely, given that power = the capacity to do work, the more power a saw has the less work you have to do. If you are less tired, there is less danger of something bad happening. Therefore it follows that feeble saws are more dangerous than powerful ones.

So if you are a hulk and can comfortably work with a ported 385xp with about 8hp on tap, get one. It will do so much work for you, life will be a breeze.

 

My advice is don't be swayed by those here who have their feet firmly planted in either the Husky or the Stihl camp (or Makita, Tanaka, Solo, Jonsered, Echo et al); try first then buy the most powerful chainsaw (i.e. the saw capable of doing the most work) that 'fits' you, and which is light enough for you to comfortably use all day while wearing all the mandatory PPE (including gloves!).

 

CS

[miker]

no such thing as a safe chainsaw, as is there is no safe car,digger,hedge cutter etc, all need maximum respect, all will kill you if treated wrong!! or treated right!! be safe

[lendahand]

no such thing as a safe chainsaw, as is there is no safe car,digger,hedge cutter etc, all need maximum respect, all will kill you if treated wrong!! or treated right!! be safe

 

Mc Cullock must be one of the safest saws, I've let to see one that the customer can start or has not got the chain on backwards or better still in tichy pieces.

[morten]

Mc Cullock must be one of the safest saws, I've let to see one that the customer can start or has not got the chain on backwards or better still in tichy pieces.

 

LOL!

 

Yes, indeed. The safest saw is a saw that cannot be started.

 

For an extra laugh, have a look at this "safety device" that prevents kickback (or any other action) of a chainsaw: Safeguard Ventures producers of the Centurion chainsaw guard for protection against chainsaw kickback injury

Mount that on a McCullock, and it will be totally safe. Even in the unlikely event that the saw is ever started.

[Ian C]

No such thing as a safe chainsaw, only a safe chainsaw user.