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moving fluidly while blocking down


ecolojim
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Hi guys

 

apologies if this has been covered before. Im sure it inevitably has.

 

When blocking down a large stem some time ago, I got to thinking that the way I was moving around the stem to cut from both sides, seemed far from smooth. Ive got in the back of my mind, something to do with crossing over ones flipline allowing you to move around the stem more smoothly, but I could well be dreaming.

 

Anyone got any tips and tricks?

 

thanks

 

Jim

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Crossing the flipline in front of you would add more friction, so it would make you more stable but unlikely to be smoother at moving.

 

Practice is the only thing that works. I used to not look forward to blocking, but I can switch off now and just repeat the same repetitive moves again and again, start at the begining and end at the end, nothing else to think about.

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all i can think of from what you have given us is use a bigger saw, plenty of power and bar side is best, its not hard on your arms anyway coz the tree is taking the weight.:001_smile:

Crossing your strop is ok but not only when on something very skinny, i always choker my strop off my front when working a stem anyway, far more comfortable on the hips aswell as the safety side of things if it goes pete tong:biggrin:

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guess it's time to man up and take a proper man sized saw up then!

 

The occasions im talking about are rare, but ive an ash to contend with this week that'll need the 372 in from both sides to sort out the stem.

 

thanks for all the replies though guys. appreciated it!

 

Jim

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guess it's time to man up and take a proper man sized saw up then!

 

 

After you have cut through your chogg, start cutting the next one, the apply chain brake and leave the saw in the wood while you throw the cut chogg. That way you don't have the saw pulling you out the tree :thumbup1:

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another thing to remember is, it isnt illegal to cut at an angle, level cutting gives you a lot of work, i will slice a whole stem this way, once you have done a couple of slices you will sus what thickness is best to work with, you want to be able to cut right through and let it slide off guiding it with the saw. Set yourself further back and work of your middle, you will get a good few cuts before having to move, them when you need to, just hold onto the saw in the stem, lean forward and let the strop fall down a bit and then commence, keeps you from adjusting every time. but it is what ever suits you, find your own method mate.

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372!!! thats a pruning saw mate!!! you want a 66 or 88!!, stick a 24" bar on her its pretty much usless for most ground work but i like the 372 for chogging down with a 24" then switch to a bigger saw like a 395, last resort is a 120cc saw not much fun on spikes ! I find the best way to tackle a larger stem is start the next cut or keep the saw on top of the stem to keep the weight off you whilst positioning so your keeping it from weighing you down or pulling your harness off!!

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