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Andy Collins
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yes he is coming to me shortly take trunks out of the park. i thought it might of been yours andy.:001_smile:

 

Haha slightly bigger 4wd tractor than I have:001_tongue: I was just a small cog in the machine on todays job, but it was fun. Bob dropped the pops across Sandy Lane,Coddenham then the BM scooped them up and cleared the road, for a quick and efficient job.

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mattyf,

 

nice job on the horse chestnut,how do u get a nice compact shape from them,do you use your own eye or the groundys?

 

cheers dude,I usually get my anchore then scout for a nice line with as many growth points as possible then follow it with my own eye starting from the top and work down.then check it over from the ground before taking the anchore out,a second eye on the ground doesnt help in my opinion as two different people can be following different lines....

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Just out of interest what do you fellas reckon a big gob is? 30%, 40% etc. Or are we talking over 50% only?

 

Iwas taught 20% softwood 30% hardwood learnt my trade from the axe and crosscut boys .All my cutting was for commercial timber and big gobs wasted butt length.Stumps had to be 2 inch below ground not 2 foot above.Ifelled through the elm regime in the 70s and 80s with trees pushing 2000 hoppus. Imo moving the throat back in a backleaner is the wrong way to go, especially if youre roping it over a lot of it lies in rope position.Regarding elm particularly wych elm you find that because of the very nature of the timber they are more resistant to being pulled you only need to look at the rag on a elm butt or stump to understand that.Ive seen elm that have put up a massive resistance to being roped even when they were being winched with Cats and a 2 inch peg in the heart has been the problem.

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Not to disagree, as you obviously know what your talking about, but a deep hinge does'nt mean wasted timber. You can go deep and narrow if you know what your doing.

I trained on 2000+ hoppus douglas fir and big oak harvesting, and undercutting the CofG was always easier than fetching the winch at the wrong moment.

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Iwas taught 20% softwood 30% hardwood learnt my trade from the axe and crosscut boys .All my cutting was for commercial timber and big gobs wasted butt length.Stumps had to be 2 inch below ground not 2 foot above.Ifelled through the elm regime in the 70s and 80s with trees pushing 2000 hoppus. Imo moving the throat back in a backleaner is the wrong way to go, especially if youre roping it over a lot of it lies in rope position.Regarding elm particularly wych elm you find that because of the very nature of the timber they are more resistant to being pulled you only need to look at the rag on a elm butt or stump to understand that.Ive seen elm that have put up a massive resistance to being roped even when they were being winched with Cats and a 2 inch peg in the heart has been the problem.

 

Interesting logger they where the first large wych elms ive felled and a few where pigs but i agree with your post...i dont think a larger gob would of helped and on one of the trees the gob sat on the saw when it moved forward it was so rotten and when i put the back cut in it sat to the side when i got near the hinge so i took the saw power head off and came in above on the other side the fiber pull was so strong from the good side the tree still went where i aimed it evan though it was mush and had collasped on the bar trapped side,this made me very weary when rounding up the others and the felling cut positions to look for decay.

Thing i found interseting was every one one rotten around the buttresses for about a foot or up to 8 on the worse ones is this common on elm ?

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I think that the issue over gob sizes is something that is learnt over time. Nptc teaches the basic requirements, you learn and adapt your felling techniques over time,to suit different timbers and being taught by older, more experienced people who've done the job for many years. Rarely is it possible to put an old head on young shoulders! Thanks for the input, logger.

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