Dear Husqvarna

[Andy Collins]

I have been using saws from your stable for most of my working life, and tbh am getting sick and tired of an age old issue. This is the failure of various bolts to stay in place for more than a day or so of hard work. Last Friday I'd just replaced a lost exhaust bolt, checked for tightness prior to work, by breakfast I was rummaging through sawdust to find it again. If it was just one saw, I wouldnt be too worried, but this has always happened with any saw you seem to make. Why oh why cant this be sorted at the factory, it doesnt happen with my Stihls??? As I've said elsewhere in this forum, this makes what should be a Ferrari of saws, into a Ford! Come on, I dont expect this from professional equipment in this day and age.

[Sam Thompson]

Im looking at upgrading my current saws (non-professional) to something of a higher calibre. I love the Husky 576XP, and liked the one I tried, but this issue seems to crop up time and time again both on here and with the professional users I know. This is the reason I am looking towards paying that extra money for a MS460 or MS441.

 

If they would get their act together about it then I would certainly go Husky.

 

Sam

[daveindales]

hve used husky since 1985 and have only had this problem once. This was with my current 372xp, where the bolts on the dogs keeps coming loose. never had it on another husky saw.

[Andy Collins]

Dont get me wrong here, I love the 372xp (now various issues are sorted with it) I love the 346xp and 357xp I bought this year, but in all the years of using Huskies, this problem still occurs. I check all my saws daily, but to have bolts work loose during the day, on new saws, is ridiculous. On the 372 its the dog bolts, on the 357 its the exhaust bolts, in the past it was exhaust bolts on 272, 288, 395s, so its not a one-off for me. All I'm asking is that they address the issue to make other-wise good saws into superb saws.

[slasherscot]

usually happens if u have the rakers(depth gauge) filed down to low, a lot more vibration on hardwoods, use some lock tight

[Andy Collins]

usually happens if u have the rakers(depth gauge) filed down to low, a lot more vibration on hardwoods, use some lock tight

 

That may have been the case in the early days, but I doubt it now, and i've tried various thread locking compounds but the heat of the exhaust just seems to break it down. If the manner in which I take down the rakers was at fault, why do the Stihls not suffer the same fate? And i always using a gauge for the rakers, never do it by eye.

[slasherscot]

used to have major problems with my stihl exhaust bolt holes, but only use huskies on the ground now , if u dont catch a rattling bolt straight away, then it is forever coming loose, hoilicoiling the bolt hole is usually the best answer. gl

[Charlieh]

its the bar nuts on my 372 that i keep loosing the others i have seem ok, but its a pain having to make sure you have some spare ny-lock nuts in your trouser pocket when you set off in the morning, that said i still prefer huskies

[Magnus]

That may have been the case in the early days, but I doubt it now, and i've tried various thread locking compounds but the heat of the exhaust just seems to break it down. If the manner in which I take down the rakers was at fault, why do the Stihls not suffer the same fate? And i always using a gauge for the rakers, never do it by eye.

 

The problem with bolts loosing up is well known and a visit to a good dealer/repair shop should fixed it. That way you would not had issues with any of them repetitively.

 

It is vibrations and material movements that cause this.

 

I replace Aluminum with fiber gaskets instead of the aluminum. Fiber you can reuse, Aluminum is compressed once, thats it!

If you have Alu, throw it out and in with a new.

If not it will not do its job as it is compressed already.

 

Overtightening is often a common misstake.

Not having the surfaces level is another.

[Magnus]

its the bar nuts on my 372 that i keep loosing the others i have seem ok, but its a pain having to make sure you have some spare ny-lock nuts in your trouser pocket when you set off in the morning, that said i still prefer huskies

 

Same thing here. You probably need new guide plates as they are compressed.

Correct nut tension is important. Over tightening will make the set up solid and vibrations go thru bar out in cover and loosen the nuts.

 

Guide plates are there to kill vibrations, make it easier for bar to move when chain is tightened and provide correct distance between body and cover.

 

No need for nylock if all is correct.

 

Tension is correct if done with thumb or two fingers.

Not hole hand and full force or socket wrenches with 60 cm handles...

Tightening is a delicate matter that need understanding of the materials.