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Good stove/bad stove


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We`ve got a two door Hamlet. Dont know its model name offhand, but it has the riddles,clearview vents, and other vents. Locks down for an overnight burn, and the spares can be had from the country store i bought it from.

Had it a couple of years and it still looks spanking. Only had to replace a door cord in that time.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I fitted a Stovax Sherraton (may of spelt it wrong) say 13 yrs ago into my say late 50's semi central fireplace. I say that because I could only find small stoves that fitted at the time and the Sherraton was wider than a UK std fireplace, but with plenty of brick in my fireplace I cut the brickwork out to fit the stove and fitted a 6" liner.

 

I runs really well and will stays in overnight with larger night logs, it has run constanly in bad winters.

 

maintanance - Being used as the main heating for the house, I have replaced x3 sets of fires bricks, burnt out x3 smoke leaders ( it runs red hot in winter) plus x2 top tile supports and cracked the top casting but not replaced (no leak).

 

Overall I would buy another anyday - bit dusty but can't face wither without it.:thumbup:

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I have an Arrow Ecoburn 7 Multifuel, its made of rolled steel so will not crack, the door is cast but very heavy.

 

The bricks are rectangle and simple in shape you can cut new ones from vermiculite board,

I mainly burn logs in it and have a plate fitted over the grate bars to ensure a slower burn, I love it. :thumbup1:

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I fitted a Stovax Sherraton (may of spelt it wrong) say 13 yrs ago into my say late 50's semi central fireplace. I say that because I could only find small stoves that fitted at the time and the Sherraton was wider than a UK std fireplace, but with plenty of brick in my fireplace I cut the brickwork out to fit the stove and fitted a 6" liner.

 

I runs really well and will stays in overnight with larger night logs, it has run constanly in bad winters.

 

maintanance - Being used as the main heating for the house, I have replaced x3 sets of fires bricks, burnt out x3 smoke leaders ( it runs red hot in winter) plus x2 top tile supports and cracked the top casting but not replaced (no leak).

 

Overall I would buy another anyday - bit dusty but better than watching the telly.

 

I take it you burn coal or coke as well as wood?????

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I've got a Villager 'A' Flat. Not particularly fashionable and apparently rubbish but it's brilliant and keeps us toasty all winter long.

 

My brother has a Clearview thing and it's a pig. Probably the installation but he's given up using it.

 

At the end of the day, it's a stove. An iron box with a glass door. To coin a phrase, it's not rocket science. I think a much larger factor is the chimney. We've got a fully insulated 6m straight up and down with a draught proof cowl on top. Takes 10 mins to sweep and works perfectly.

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I take it you burn coal or coke as well as wood?????

 

No. it's a wood only stove but on good wood will run like a blast furnace, we can never run it with the top vents open. As I said the 'smoke leader' the cast iron deflector at the top back of the stove will run red hot and will last say 3 seasons before burning out. To make changing them easier I had to drill out the countersunk screws the first time but now fit mild steel 1" long hex bolts with a few washers behind, so I can shear the old bolts of when changing smoke leaders. The top casting cracked when the top fire bricks had a gap in them which made the top run redhot but as the casting has a thick part it stopped the crack. Glass is original but most of the seals have been changed to improve low burning. I may as well be honest about the stove.

 

Overall it uses say 2-3 baskets of logs in mid winter and the whole chimney stack is warm, so with all internal doors left open the whole house is warm.:thumbup1:

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blazer it sounds like you're definitely over-firing that stove! If it's going like a blast furnace and glowing red, then you need to look at the way you're controlling it or the door seals and so on, as it sounds like there's way too much air getting in there. Wood prefers air from above - the bottom air intakes should be closed right down once the fire is established, and the fire controlled with the upper air inlets. However, if the door and/or ashpan seals are knackered, then it will go like a train and use way more fuel than it should.

 

Andy

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blazer it sounds like you're definitely over-firing that stove! If it's going like a blast furnace and glowing red, then you need to look at the way you're controlling it or the door seals and so on, as it sounds like there's way too much air getting in there. Wood prefers air from above - the bottom air intakes should be closed right down once the fire is established, and the fire controlled with the upper air inlets. However, if the door and/or ashpan seals are knackered, then it will go like a train and use way more fuel than it should.

 

Andy

 

Hi Andy

 

Sorry I meant to say it will run like a blast furnace, it's wood only so top fed air only, giving a good air curtain. A few years ago it ran a bit hot but I changed to glass seal tap and the door fibre seals. To give it low control, I don't like to run it too low as it can smell & (as all stoves/boilers can) blow back when the door is opened. I left the old cat flap in the kitchen to act as a air balance flap for the house & as the house has wooden supported floors I drilled x6 large holes in the floor boards to draw air in ( with a grid over to place the log basket)It runs all winter when cold so we burn say 10-15 tonnes or about 20 pickup fulls = fuel cost only. I clear boughs on a large estate and also take wood back for the manager/gamekeeper + shoot squirrels/ rabbits to feed my dogs. My first dog went off squirrel after giving him 400+ one year.

 

I went for a Swedish stove - being a cold country they must know what they are designing.

 

Yep air leaks can be a problem to trace, I test it now by running it well then closing the vents to see if it will drop down, and test the flue by seeing it the front doors will be pulled shut by the draft vacuum. It failed with the old liner breaking near the top once giving a CO risk.

 

When running well on say dry oak embers build up and the smoke leader will run red hot even with the top vents down to say 1/4 open.

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