MS200T chain brake handle.

[Paul Jenks]

They, Stihl, have relatively recently changed the design to reinforce the bit that breaks. It's stil not as good as the original, as I have a handle and side casing from my first one, 1995, that has the sticker on it to prove it, that has done numerous saws and working ok.

It's typical value engineering, i.e. using as small amount of material as possible to allow the tool/engine/part to survive the warrenty period.

Same as the on/off switches on the MS200t and blowers. And the diaphrams in the carbs.

[Le Sanglier]

Mines gone as usual, is there a way of replacing just the black bit and not the whole side?

[Johny Walker]

Mines gone as usual, is there a way of replacing just the black bit and not the whole side?

 

yep

[WoodED]

superglue

[Mesterh]

A new part is around £15.

 

Its easy enough to change but you need to give it all a good clean as ALOT of oil and crap gets in there and take a few picks as you dismantle so you can suss out were all the bits go.

 

Also knock the chain brake off ie take the energy out of the spring before you remove the white plastic cover.

[Mesterh]

superglue

 

Did that hold?

[Le Sanglier]

A new part is around £15.

 

Its easy enough to change but you need to give it all a good clean as ALOT of oil and crap gets in there and take a few picks as you dismantle so you can suss out were all the bits go.

 

Also knock the chain brake off ie take the energy out of the spring before you remove the white plastic cover.

 

Thanks, I'll order it up and give it a go.

[Edmond Dantes]

I think the comment about clipping the strop to the chain brake is right, but also you could just try not slinging it about so much - it takes no time to clip it on between cuts. We haven't broken one so long as I can remember for over three years.

 

I always wince when I watch a few hundred quid going a' swinging off someone's belt.

[swinny]

I think the comment about clipping the strop to the chain brake is right, but also you could just try not slinging it about so much - it takes no time to clip it on between cuts. We haven't broken one so long as I can remember for over three years.

 

I always wince when I watch a few hundred quid going a' swinging off someone's belt.

 

i admit that i do clip the strop to the chain brake, but i've had no ill effects from this.

 

i have an older 200t for conifer topping etc that has a broken handle, but thats been battling on for a long time now and everythings ok with that saw

 

Also i agree with the above coment on clipping your saw up to your harness!!!

 

Its only a few quid extra for a strop with a ring built in, and its so simple to clip into an old krab or cari-tool on your harness, rather than it being dropped and swinging into the tree and getting stuck in forks when your trying to move around the tree

[Mesterh]

I think the comment about clipping the strop to the chain brake is right, but also you could just try not slinging it about so much - it takes no time to clip it on between cuts. We haven't broken one so long as I can remember for over three years.

 

I always wince when I watch a few hundred quid going a' swinging off someone's belt.

 

Thing is though it's meant to be a pro saw and therefore should be able to take more than a little abuse, which it used to be able to do until they redesigned the handle making it weak. I never strop onto the chain brake and as you say it's not really a good idea.

 

I just don't bother replacing them anymore when they do snap.