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Landrover 130 brake upgrade


Dean Lofthouse
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I went to do a job with the Mewp today.

 

I pulled up at the job with Mewp on trailer, weight a full 3.5t

 

I was facing uphill, quite a steep uphill and when I stopped on footbrake, the trailer started dragging me back down the hill.

 

Front wheels locked but back wheels wouldn't lock.

 

Now landies are best known for cock on brakes but I have found before that when loaded they are useless.

 

Does anyone know of any off the shelf brake upgrade kits that will stand a loaded 130 on it's nose so to speak and most importantly, get more braking on the rear wheels.

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Something doesn't sound right there, has the motor been serviced lately? there seems to be a lack of efficency on the rear axle.

 

My brakes will hold me at a full 7 ton gross train weight on the steepest of hills and they are only standard LR Brakes.

 

On recommendtaion I can put forward though is an X-Eng Disc hand brake, They are truely awsome for hill starts when towing they are so much stringer than the standard LR hand brake. The X brake will hold the whole rig comfortably.

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Something doesn't sound right there, has the motor been serviced lately? there seems to be a lack of efficency on the rear axle.

 

 

It has just gone through it's MOT 2 days ago.

 

It has never had brilliant brakes. I service it myself, I always take down the brakes, check all pistons are free and working and then rebuild with copperslip.

 

I've even got a new set of front discs and pads to put on but there really isn't anything wrong with the ones that are on.

 

I don't want to replace everything to find the brakes are still crap. I have even checked the vacuum pump to make sure it is supplying the servo enough.

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it could be the F:R bias valve &/or the check valve that is fulty.

 

someone may have put e.g. 90 bias valve on it in the past?

 

Something I haven't checked b101uk :icon14:

 

I will clamp off both front brakes and slowly test the rears in reverse to see how efficeint they are.

 

The problem with the mot is they have to use the swing guage to check the brakes because they say they cant put them on the rolling road.

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Problem with the ex utility 130s seems to be that when LR Special Vehicles put them together they used bits from all over the LR range. It's possible that someone at some point has used parts that were for a standard 110/130 and not the upgraded bits as originally fitted (if that makes sense)

 

I know when I needed pads for mine we ended up drawing round the pads so the supplier could check each time a set got delivered - took 4 attempts to get the right ones.

 

I've a pair of rear caliper repair kits (new pistons and seals) for sale if you need them - bought them for mine and didn't need them in the end.

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Something I haven't checked b101uk :icon14:

 

I will clamp off both front brakes and slowly test the rears in reverse to see how efficeint they are.

 

The problem with the mot is they have to use the swing guage to check the brakes because they say they cant put them on the rolling road.

 

don’t clamp the pipes, you will rupture the inner rubber hose witch will part brake off in time and will stop the brakes releasing as it will act like a 1-way valve.

 

a swing gauge :stupid: if its 3.5t it should be on the rolling road/brake tester.

 

how steep was the hill in deg? as overrun brakes don’t work in reverse so will pull you down hill, e.g on a 22.5deg hill 25% of the mass of the vehicle is pulling you down hill or on an 11.25deg hill 12.5% of the mass is pulling down hill.

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