Strength of a knot takes out of climbing line?

[arbclimber]

Having a quick look at Geoff's link it seems to suggest that a knot will fail by slipping before it actually breaks the rope.

[Dean Lofthouse]

Having a quick look at Geoff's link it seems to suggest that a knot will fail by slipping before it actually breaks the rope.

 

I have yet to break a rope or have a knot fail and I have abused some ropes

[Frank]

I have yet to break a rope or have a knot fail and I have abused some ropes

 

i have a bit of new england hiivee that used to be a climbing line, then failed loler, then got used 3 times to tow a 2.6tonne transit, then has been used for light weight lowering and pulling ever since. you just cant break it.

[arbclimber]

I have yet to break a rope or have a knot fail and I have abused some ropes

 

I've never broken a rope either, or had a knot slip. And i've been known to use an old prussik loop as a strop for winching stumps on occasion.

[Dean Lofthouse]

Its all good for instilling confidence in your climbing system.

 

If you can abuse to that extent without failure, then your body weight is going to have no chance of making part of the system fail, provided it is in good order

[geoff]

A bit more;

 

Knot - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[arbclimber]

Its all good for instilling confidence in your climbing system.

 

If you can abuse to that extent without failure, then your body weight is going to have no chance of making part of the system fail, provided it is in good order

 

I've loaded a prussik as hard as I possibly could with a Lug all winch used doubled through a pulley so must have been putting a load of about 1600kg through it. To be honest, I know it would be stupid but it looks like it would still be fine to climb on.

[treequip]

As far as PPE goes if you used your body to inflict enough force to do any damage to a climbing system you would have more to worry about than a knot giving up.

 

As far as rigging goes I have seen poorly dressed knots fail but as far as I can remember only in low melt point polymers like Dyneema or Pollyprop where the knot “self dressing” under force has generated friction up to melt point temperatures.

[arbclimber]

As far as PPE goes if you used your body to inflict enough force to do any damage to a climbing system you would have more to worry about than a knot giving up.

 

As far as rigging goes I have seen poorly dressed knots fail but as far as I can remember only in low melt point polymers like Dyneema or Pollyprop where the knot “self dressing” under force has generated friction up to melt point temperatures.

 

Excellent point, if you put enough force through your climbing system to worry the knot then you would probably have been snapped in half anyway.

[Dionysus]

ive snapped 3 lengths of yale xtc spearmint, was an old climbing rope in good conditiong then used for pulling with a ford ranger, snapped all 3 times in the middle of the line, nowhere near the knots. (which were running bowline and bowline on a bight.) not much of an experience but it counts for something