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Idea for making chainsawmilling easier...


Rob D
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Got an idea to of how to make chainsaw milling easier although not sure how careful I have to be suggesting things not recommended by the manufacturer :confused1:

 

I'm thinking a lightweight stand at the end of the log you're milling with a pendulum weight that you attach through a pulley that runs parallel to log onto somewhere on the mill. This should give a constant pull on the mill which saves you pushing it.

 

 

Another good site I've started to look at is the The Carpenters Fellowship

 

as they specialise in timber framed buildings. There could be a good market here for us chainsaw millers in that they are often looking for curved elbows and braces - difficult for other set ups but easy with a chainsaw mill once you have the first flat edge. Also they like 4" boards which means less milling.

 

 

I'm hoping to attend there show this year and do a talk on chainsaw milling but I'm also toying with the idea of doing a short course on timber framing. What could be better than being able to mill your own wood then build a proper timber frame!

 

 

Another place to watch is here http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=62 where there are a few dedicated chainsaw millers and in particular a fellow called BobL who has probably forgotten more than I know!!

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Some sort of method to pull the saw through would certainly make the milling easier.

 

I've a few questions and ideas....

 

The greatest inaccuracies with the milling for me come with the lead on and lead off the timber. In terms of design, a single flat plate on the bottom rather than two rails might result in a smoother finish. Also, a second handle to vary hand position.

 

Does anyone here use a double ended bar with two drive units? Is it worth thinking about? I have two 088s and a 5ft bar I've yet to christen. Would it be worth doing away with the sprocket nose and replacing it with a second drive unit end (if that's possible)?

 

Does everyone use a ladder for that first straight cut or does anyone have any designs for an effective, reliable rail system?

 

Jonathan

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Does anyone here use a double ended bar with two drive units? Is it worth thinking about? I have two 088s and a 5ft bar I've yet to christen. Would it be worth doing away with the sprocket nose and replacing it with a second drive unit end (if that's possible)?

 

Back in the day, Stihl did a bar like that for thier own planking frame. Your dealer might be able to find one.

 

Have a look at the ebay link in this thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/14468-15-mins-left-soooo-tempted.html

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Some sort of method to pull the saw through would certainly make the milling easier.

 

I've a few questions and ideas....

 

The greatest inaccuracies with the milling for me come with the lead on and lead off the timber. In terms of design, a single flat plate on the bottom rather than two rails might result in a smoother finish. Also, a second handle to vary hand position.

 

Very good points Jonathan.

 

I have heard of people when milling having a second person pulling the mill with a rope. Guess they will need a steady hand.

 

Does everyone use a ladder for that first straight cut or does anyone have any designs for an effective, reliable rail system?

 

Jonathan

 

This was something i was going to start a thread about. I am still nailing a ladder to the log and bending the nails over the rungs! Very crude but i intend to do my own little invention soon, still using the ladder but if it works i shall be happy to share, and will do a seperate thread about it.

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Very good points Jonathan.

I am still nailing a ladder to the log and bending the nails over the rungs! Very crude but i intend to do my own little invention soon, still using the ladder but if it works i shall be happy to share, and will do a seperate thread about it.

 

Ladder and bent nails, luxury!

I'm using a plank!

 

The Granberg EZ rails look good. Anyone use them?

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What could be better than being able to mill your own wood then build a proper timber frame!

 

Nothing has came close to it if me.:thumbup1:

Felled and extracted the Oak 3 miles from where I built the house

Wished I could have done the whole house but even doing it my self still could not afford to.

Look forward to seeing how your idea progresses.:thumbup:

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Some sort of method to pull the saw through would certainly make the milling easier.

 

I've a few questions and ideas....

 

The greatest inaccuracies with the milling for me come with the lead on and lead off the timber. In terms of design, a single flat plate on the bottom rather than two rails might result in a smoother finish. Also, a second handle to vary hand position.

 

Does anyone here use a double ended bar with two drive units? Is it worth thinking about? I have two 088s and a 5ft bar I've yet to christen. Would it be worth doing away with the sprocket nose and replacing it with a second drive unit end (if that's possible)?

 

Does everyone use a ladder for that first straight cut or does anyone have any designs for an effective, reliable rail system?

 

Jonathan

 

 

You could always have a second handle on there to vary hand position. A flat plate may work but also might increase friction... Ed (from Eds sawmill) extended his mill front and back so when you started a log and finsihed there was more surface area in contact with the log. At the end of the log I know push down hard on the back box section rail just as the front rail slips off the log.. this stops that little downturn at the end.

 

Tried a double ended set up with 2x makita 9010s and while it worked it worked a treat! But in the end piston scored both (repaired them and 3 months later the same happened!!). Also had a couple of times problems where one didn't start... double ended milling works well as long as everything is working fine... a real pig if it's not!

 

If you have 2x 088s a much better idea would be to have 2 people milling different logs at the same time rather than 2 people on one log.... although when all is right the double ended set up powers through large logs like you wouldn't believe I still think you're better off with a one powerhead set up.

 

The EZ rails are ok but much more fiddly than a ladder. But I have only tried the 5ft EZ rails joined together. May try getting in a few of the 9 foot EZ rails which have to be better (really hard trying to get the portion where the 5ft rails join not to 'sag'). But either way with the exchange rate they will be expensive! :sneaky2:

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