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njc110381
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I know what you mean regarding the saws. They are the models I've found that suit me best. I did have an MS260 as a mid range saw but sold it as I didn't use it once I had the 200T!

 

I use the 200T for most jobs, pruning branches etc. I work off of low ladders quite a lot (maybe up to ten feet or so) and found that a one handed saw was ideal. As long as you understand them and respect them they're ok. Using two hands on the saw whilst standing on a ladder is in my mind more dangerous than one hand on the saw and one on the tree/ladder! I bought it because I was planning to do the medium section felling certificate but never grew the balls to actually get up there! I hate heights! I may try it in the future as I know a guy who is an NPTC/LANTRA instructor. He's taught me a lot but I just can't face getting high enough to pass the test!

 

The 660 I bought because I had a lot of big timber to deal with. I have a 3' bar for it which I've used on a couple of fallen Beech trees on a mates farm. I also have a 25" bar and an 18" bar which I use the most. I just like the speed it cuts when I'm doing firewood! With the short bar it's very stable in use but cuts really fast!

 

EDIT... Haha, I just read your signature! I am listening, promise! Is using a high powered saw with a small bar really that bad?

 

Wow what a stupid thing to post on here! ok fair dos maybe you dont understand that people will realy hate that post but still.

 

I dont no If im wrong here but when you buy a top handled saw do you have to show some kind of proff hat you have your cs 39??? I might be wrong

 

everyone picthforks at the ready:001_smile:

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Wow what a stupid thing to post on here! ok fair dos maybe you dont understand that people will realy hate that post but still.

 

I dont no If im wrong here but when you buy a top handled saw do you have to show some kind of proff hat you have your cs 39??? I might be wrong

 

everyone picthforks at the ready:001_smile:

 

You do...(i think) but bought one from an arbtalk sponsor and wasnt asked to show it :001_rolleyes:

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You do...(i think) but bought one from an arbtalk sponsor and wasnt asked to show it :001_rolleyes:

 

You are supposed to but i've never been asked as my local garden machinery shop has known me for years and just assume i am qualified i think.Its not like a firearms license is it, Not sure if its actually illegal to sell a top handle. On that note does anyone want to borrow my one handed shot gun?:001_tt2:

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Oh dear! Looks like that's newbie stupid post number one then?! I bought it from a well known local machinery shop at the same time as the 660. Perhaps they thought that as I was buying over £1k of kit in one shot that I was qualified? I've never been questioned over it?

 

You can curse me all you like. As I still don't know what you're all moaning about I'm still none the wiser, but I'm bright enough to figure out something needs to change in my setup! So oh wise ones, what am I to do? I'm here to learn after all so teach me. You never know it may save me from being a statistic that makes your lives harder so it's worth a moment to tell me surely?

 

As for the firearms comment. There's less training going in to that than there is arb work! I think it's mad that I've got kit from a .22lr to a .300 Win Mag (+/- 5 miles range if shot at the sky and will go through a foot round tree trunk like an air rifle will go through a sheet of paper) on open conditions to shoot any legal quarry. I've never had to pass a test for that, although getting the FAC in the first place was a bit of work.

 

That's a subject I do know a great deal about, but it doesn't carry much weight for digging me out of this hole does it?!

 

Anyway, back on topic. Give me some pointers here and I'll do my best to change my ways to suit the rules. Without going deep into qualified arb work you don't actually get to hear about these guidelines and I'd be really grateful of someone could put me straight rather than just slate me for not knowing! :ahhhhh:

 

EDIT... I should add that so far the comments on this have been about as much use as a chocolate teapot. I'm trying not to get my back up over this as I'm new here but how about some constructive help rather than digs between yourselves. It must be pretty obvious to you that I don't know what I'm doing so help me out a bit hey!

Edited by njc110381
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Top handled saws are dangerous and according to industry guidlines shouldnt be used on the ground, with one hand and by someone unquialifed to use one. As this is an ARB forum people here are profesionals and using a top handled saw in a lader with one hand is what gets peoples backs up, there must be about one thread a week about un professionals doing what you do, I cant slate your work because I have seen no pictures

 

Sky huck is right you think that by making your life easier by using a saw one handed from a ladder you think it doesnt have an effect on professional arborists lifes? As well as your because youve cut your hand off etc. Well it does as he pointed out more red tape hassle causing self employed people to spend more monney they havent got

 

As for using a 66 as a felling saw on small trees is your choice realy but most peopes adivice on here would be to sell your 200t (unless you want to start climbing) and your 66 and buy yourself a 260 or a 346.

 

This is just from an apprentice im sure theres more to come.

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You have a very honest attitude and I like that :thumbup1:

 

You obviously realize that trying to use a c/saw from a ladder is very dangerous, BUT to try and over come this you have gone for a saw that can be used one handed, however the circumstance in which it can be use one handed are very special.

 

Using an ms200 one handed so you can use you other hand to try and stop yourself falling off the ladder is not one of those circumstances.

 

Some do use ladders to access the tree, and will cut from the ladder, but they will be wearing a harness and will be fastened in such a way that both hands are free to safely operate the saw, without the risk of falling or losing their work position.

Edited by skyhuck
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Perhaps I need to bite the bullet and do the small section felling certificate then?

 

Are you saying that a top handled saw shouldn't be used one handed at all or just on the ground? I use mine on the ground but with both hands. They are unstable little things I know, probably because the back handle is so close to the front one so you lose a lot of leverage? I'm very careful with it, although if what I do isn't to industry standards then it doesn't matter anyway. When I'm cutting up a ladder and using it one handed I keep the main trunk between my supporting hand and the saw and in a way that if it kicks back it shouldn't hit me. I use it with a very short bar and keep a close eye on where the nose is.

 

I have a harness and a wire cored rope thingy (sorry!) that I attatch myself to the tree with, but I doubt I really know how to use it properly. I generally just loop it around the trunk and over a branch so it can't slip down and tighten it up to how I want to be positioned so I can't fall? I have gaffs too but I slipped and squashed my nuts once so I don't like using them! :scared1:

 

I expect that everything I type is making you guys cringe just a little more than the last post but I'd rather get it out in the open so you can tell me what I'm doing wrong!

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