cable brace advice

[Dan Maynard]

I think the idea of using an impact driver as a way of managing the reaction torque is novel. To me it does have the whiff of snake oil about it, if you could suddenly increase cutting tool performance and life by a factor of two then people like Dormer and Sandvik would be all over it. After all cutting tools have been thought about a lot, by a lot of people.

 

I suspect they are twice as good as cheap tat, and more equivalent to the decent ones that few people buy.

[dumper]

Just try one they are not cheap but a lot of steel fixers use them no pilot holes and drill straight through 20mm thick steel you need high powered impact 1/2 or 3/4 drive and plenty of cutting grease it’s a easy tool to use especially up in a cheery picker I’d link a video but haven’t a clue how to

[Mr. Squirrel]

I can see the logic behind an impact driver for something like this, you’re limiting the torque that can be transferred to you, avoiding the whole thing binding up and bogging down. But optimally I’d still go for one of the big 36v drills. The makita twin 18v has more torque and higher speeds than the Milwaukee or dewalt I believe, and is nails. Mines been thoroughly abused and hasn’t skipped a beat. 

[Andrew McEwan]

Have you looked at looping steel cable round the stem with vertical timber spreader bars under the cable? Save a lot of hassle drilling then, has worked well on trees that previously would have had rods or been drilled and cabled. Or Treeworker will sell you very high MBS dyneema bracing material if you want a static splice- able set up that is stronger than any normal Gefa, cobra or marlow braids.