Chain Bar "Dressing" tool. Is this necessary and used by professionals?

[doobin]

Milwaukee powerfile with an 80 grit ceramic belt. 
 

 

[doobin]

18 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

I've never used one.  I generally clean the bar first in soapy water.  Then I use a flat file to take off any burs, then I have a good look for squareness with a mini set square and flatness with a piece of aluminium. I also use a magnetic spirit level on the bar, knowing my vice and workbench are perfectly level. I bang dings with a hammer. Finally once flat, I remove the tracks in the rails where the teeth run.

With respect, a little torpedo level on the bar on the bench won’t tell you shit. It’ll make you feel good but that’s about it. 
 

Steel straight edge is what you need. A peice of aluminium is liable to be bent from the off unless it’s an extruded profile. 

[Brushcutter]

A bench belt sander is also really good for dressing bars. At least short ones.

[outinthewood]

Nothing wrong with the item described by OP but as Steve B points out maybe not a great file ...

I have yet to meet a human with a eye good enough to give the correct angle with just a flat file on a worn bar, however an old method was to use flat file with two bits of lets say 2"by1" which would show up any real bad left or right inclination. So draw the file supported on said 2x1s with thumbs back towards you and pretty good results. Not so mad using angle grinder with flap wheel with very gentle force.

As for the "don't bother since the rails are splayed", if you are really stuck I have for years put a .063 chain in badly worn .058 bar for the likes of brashing and even felling 

 

[Brushcutter]

10 hours ago, outinthewood said:

Nothing wrong with the item described by OP but as Steve B points out maybe not a great file ...

I have yet to meet a human with a eye good enough to give the correct angle with just a flat file on a worn bar, however an old method was to use flat file with two bits of lets say 2"by1" which would show up any real bad left or right inclination. So draw the file supported on said 2x1s with thumbs back towards you and pretty good results. Not so mad using angle grinder with flap wheel with very gentle force.

As for the "don't bother since the rails are splayed", if you are really stuck I have for years put a .063 chain in badly worn .058 bar for the likes of brashing and even felling 

Do you not have a guide bar roller tool for squishing the rails back together. A tool I've only ever seen and don't have myself. 

[Stere]

I bought this but never have got round to used it yet just used a file free hand

 

Veritas Jointer & Edger | Axminster Tools

WWW.AXMINSTERTOOLS.COM

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Serving the dual purposes of topping off the teeth of a hand saw prior to re-sharpening, and providing an accurate guide...

 

 

Ive  done this several times seems to work ok.

 

 

[outinthewood]

No I don't have the roller re set which you could buy from Stihl as a dealer part years ago and as I said if you are stuck or for just brashing a bigger gauge will get you out of trouble.

I saw the set in a dealer friends workshop and was told it was of little use  ?

[Muddy42]

On 05/04/2025 at 04:19, doobin said:

With respect, a little torpedo level on the bar on the bench won’t tell you shit. It’ll make you feel good but that’s about it. 
 

Steel straight edge is what you need. A peice of aluminium is liable to be bent from the off unless it’s an extruded profile. 

Yes I know what you mean.  I also use a flat edge, or both together, the flat edge and the digital spirit level, because its magnetic.