Best way to manage Oak and Beech trees?

[Stere]

Whats the reason for the 4 cuts in the crown?

[openspaceman]

15 minutes ago, Stere said:

Whats the reason for the 4 cuts in the crown?

Just to disfavour branches that may become co dominant.

[Stere]

So to  reduce  occluded union trouble in future by making one side apical dominant?

 

Plus also better timber size on harvest from the  remaining dominant unpruned  branches?

[openspaceman]

2 hours ago, Stere said:

So to  reduce  occluded union trouble in future by making one side apical dominant?

 

Plus also better timber size on harvest from the  remaining dominant unpruned  branches?

Not really, yes the aim is to concentrate growth onto one vertical stem  up to 20 foot length, this keeps branches out of the way of any work underneath in the future. Not cutting the co dominant stems completely is so vigour is not reduced by removing too much active leaf area. Obviously trying to anticipate formative pruning from a 2D photo is not going to translate well to what one might decide to do on site.

 

Not every tree is going to produce a good form and you cannot odds a weak fork once it has developed, those trees will come out at a thinning. By year 50 you probably only want a tree every 25 foot and not much crown competition then (unless you are aiming for something like the french system of forestry with gun barrel straight sawlogs 40' long and 200 years in the making). The english tax system post 1945 meant that you are unlikely to see the quality of broadleaved woodland that I earned a living felling, from 1978 to 1995.

 

My point is that establishing trees in the manner of traditional oak and beech plantations or coppice with standards will produce a tree with full crown and clear stem which have a high amenity.

[organic guy]

Really interesting thread, wish I had your advice when I started thinning and pruning my wood planted in 2000!