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Stove statistics are they correct?


BillQ
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7 minutes ago, BillQ said:

I would disagree with that too, my house was designed for airflow (early 1960's house) and has less condensation now than with the modern gas combi boiler alone. 

Erm, I'll let you think about that one.

 

Where's the cold, damp outside air coming from?.

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9 minutes ago, BillQ said:

Just for you, and I think that a "sorry I was wrong" is due?

20250120_142950.thumb.jpg.43d9daabb92a0451610400317da36ce7.jpg

How about no, you've just invalidated that.

 

Plus with a 10-20 pa, you might find you'll need that air brick next to the fireplace.

Edited by GarethM
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23 minutes ago, BillQ said:

I would disagree with that too, my house was designed for airflow (early 1960's house) and has less condensation now than with the modern gas combi boiler alone. 

 

Here's the wonder of technology that stops me from setting the right burn for the right conditions and fuel. Not rocket science that's for sure. 

 

20250120_141647.thumb.jpg.21774641a2c3f1f4046b5ed206882b64.jpg

 

Agreed.  Not hard to remove/reinstall that.

 

Regarding external air, just so people are talking about the same thing, this is where you have pipe cold air from the outside directly to the stove.  You need this if you live in a properly air tight house built after about 2008.

 

Personally I think that modern living (breathing, showering, boiling kettles and cooking) creates air born moisture that needs to be expelled somehow - extractor fans, opening windows.  You cannot just heat this up in an airtight home and expect the moisture to go away.

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30 minutes ago, GarethM said:

Where's the cold, damp outside air coming from?.

What do I win?

 

If the damp warm air inside doesn't go anywhere much apart from contacting the colder internal walls then you get condensation and mold, so having an open fire originally and wall vents the relied on that air movement to prevent that along with sash windows and wooden doors. Since then someone fitted double glazing and 6 point locking composite doors, and blocked up the lum, lovely and toasty but a condensation trap.

Putting in a log burner has removed a lot of the condensation we used to get because that's how the house was built, if I blocked up the internal vents and just use the combi to heat us then I'm going out on a limb and betting we go back to condensation and mold big time. 

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2 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

You are new here and it's good to welcome an optimist.

Why thanks for the welcome, I'm well aware of how forums get bullying narcissistic types that can't back down from their lofty heights but I'm sure that isn't the case here 🤥

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23 minutes ago, GarethM said:

How about no, you've just invalidated that.

I still didn't install it, I'm not HETAS registered, that's what you said, so I'll still wait for your "sorry I was wrong" 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A fools errand but hey-ho!

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Because, depending on construction the moisture will be forming on the ground floor joists as the air will be drawn through from the cold and condensing on the warm wood then filtering through the carpet and underlay.

 

As I've said before do what you want, just don't come back here bitching when you get fined from the local council or the floor starts rotting from the joists.

 

Narcissist, that a new one, self deprecating sarcastic sod I'll freely admit.

 

Auww, were you expecting a hippy love in or a mutual spanking circle ?.

 

And yes you invalidated that piece of paper, you were quoting the regs.

Edited by GarethM
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Quote

Personally I think that modern living (breathing, showering, boiling kettles and cooking) creates air born moisture that needs to be expelled somehow - extractor fans, opening windows.  You cannot just heat this up in an airtight home and expect the moisture to go away.

 

What about   Domestic MVHRs?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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