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Method for getting consistent lengths when hand cutting logs?


Elliott.F
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What are the best ways to get a uniform log length when hand cutting logs for firewood?
One recommendation I had on here was cable ties on the saw handle cut to length. I’ve also seen people using a top handle saw and tape measure to mark the logs before cutting with a larger saw. 

Which method/s work best for you?

Edited by Elliott.F
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  • Elliott.F changed the title to Method for getting consistent lengths when hand cutting logs?

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I don't bother having each log mm perfect as long  it fits in the door of the stoves fire box so I just go at it with the chainsaw no measuring or anything.

 

I cut to make it easy to split with an axe   so I saw across knots etc rather than for uniform length.

 

 

Arb waste etc  doesn't often come in the right dimesions to make perfect looking logs anyway unlike firewood grade roundwood  etc

 

There logs not mars bars or breeze blocks so don't all come uniform size.

 

Some people (often its  women )can be overly fussy about logs appearance imo.

 

If you really want to get acurate put some markers on your saw horse etc I suppose....

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stere
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My saw horse legs are 1 log length apart, hang a bit over the end, cut in the middle of each gap, job done. 3 legs, 4 logs and about 1.2m length does most logs. Also used as a quick measure, battery saw used in the garage, next to the dry log pile, if I think a log is too long I can see if it falls through a leg gap

 

As above, it doesn't have to be pretty, few folks will come to my house to admire a uniform log pile... but the do like the fire going.

 

Commercially I guess in kindling bags a uniform length is good but then commercially to make a living you'd want as much automation as possible and not hand cutting.

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Whilst not scientific, I aim for a bit of variety in sizes but everything gets rung to less than the length of my size 11, about the width of the MS261.

 

Plus if it's a large trunk anything larger is too heavy for lifting without halving.

 

I'm not in the firewood game to create living room features in designer homes.

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1 hour ago, GarethM said:

Whilst not scientific, I aim for a bit of variety in sizes but everything gets rung to less than the length of my size 11, about the width of the MS261.

 

Plus if it's a large trunk anything larger is too heavy for lifting without halving.

 

I'm not in the firewood game to create living room features in designer homes.

I understand that log size uniformity may not be that important to many people, but I do find it useful for 3 primary reasons:

 

1. Speeds up splitting time significantly on my splitter as you can set the blade travel range to an inch or so longer than each log. 
2. I find it quicker, easier and more stable for stacking. 
3. It’s easier to calculate volume more accurately. Obviously helps if selling firewood, which I do for a few friends. 
 

So that’s why I try and be reasonably uniform, but haven’t necessarily worked out the best way to do it. 

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13 minutes ago, Elliott.F said:

I understand that log size uniformity may not be that important to many people, but I do find it useful for 3 primary reasons:

 

1. Speeds up splitting time significantly on my splitter as you can set the blade travel range to an inch or so longer than each log. 
2. I find it quicker, easier and more stable for stacking. 
3. It’s easier to calculate volume more accurately. Obviously helps if selling firewood, which I do for a few friends. 
 

So that’s why I try and be reasonably uniform, but haven’t necessarily worked out the best way to do it. 

I don't have the time to physically stack, I'm filling IBC's cages to the rim on a commercial scale but do try to Tetris as much as possible into the cage.

 

Cutting and splitting wise with experience you get a pretty consistent length within a couple of inches and can almost adjust the log splitter gap before you even pickup the ring.

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1 hour ago, NJA said:

I cut to the width of the saw, including side handle, seems to get them about right.  Obviously easiest if you're cutting left to right if that makes sense?

That’s a good method. You can use zip ties fixed to the side handle and cut to length in the same way for longer log lengths. Again working left to right works best. 

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Bolt a piece of threaded bar through the round circular hole that you can punch out on the end of many guidebars ( or just drill one out) then adjust the length of the bar to the size you want, then lock it off. 
You can buy adjustable magnetic ones in Scandinavia.


YouTube it, there are loads of variations, I’ve seen them attached to saw dog and side cover studs. 👍

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2 hours ago, 5thelement said:

Bolt a piece of threaded bar through the round circular hole that you can punch out on the end of many guidebars ( or just drill one out) then adjust the length of the bar to the size you want, then lock it off. 
You can buy adjustable magnetic ones in Scandinavia.


YouTube it, there are loads of variations, I’ve seen them attached to saw dog and side cover studs. 👍

Great thank you. Exactly the sort of tip I was looking for. Cheers. 

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