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Posted

Hello arborists

 

I wonder if anyone can help with some advice. I've just moved to a house with a nice horse chestnut tree in the front garden. Tree was pollarded at a height of around 4m some time ago. New growth from each pollard cut point in the form of straight-ish poles are up to 4" thick at the base and up to 5m long. Drains and drive seem undamaged by tree, which has a pleasant shape and apart from the leaf issue which affects HCs seems healthy. I would like to keep the tree. There is a TPO on it and I will observe the necessary protocols.

 

My questions are, would I be advised to re-pollard the tree? if so at what point above the original pollard cut should the new growth be cut? should the cut be angled or square? And most importantly for me, what time of year should this be done to minimise any threat to the health of the tree?

 

I'm quite capable of the practical work myself, I live in an area where there is plenty of work for arborists and they seem thin on the ground, anyway it seems dishonest to ask someone round for technical advice when you intend to do the work yourself. I was hoping readers of this forum would be prepared to offer advice on the subject, and I'm grateful for any suggestions.

 

 

 

 

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Posted

I would reduce that by *up to*2 metres to suitable growth points creating a new canopy structure. There no point just creating pollard points above that, you need to make sure it’s a proper prune

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Posted
  On 07/08/2023 at 18:13, Jim Curtis said:

Just outside Cambridge

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  On 07/08/2023 at 09:46, Jim Curtis said:

plenty of work for arborists and they seem thin on the ground

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I can't recognise the location from your picture but you can't be a million miles away if you decide you need to get someone in. We're not really thin on the ground, if you're east side of Cambridge I'd suggest people to talk to, if you're west side I'd come over.

 

Obviously I know nothing about you, but what I usually say if you're set on doing it yourself is make sure you have a good plan for getting rid of all the material, taking it to the tip in a van will be a lot of trips. Whereas with a chipper parked next to the tree it's a super easy job, not over half a day.

 

It would be reasonable to get someone in the first time and then keep on top of it yourself in future years.

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Posted

 

  On 08/08/2023 at 20:48, Martin du Preez said:

I would reduce that by *up to*2 metres

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Hi Martin, thanks for your suggestion, sorry I didn't reply sooner but I thought the thread was dead and I'd stopped checking back.

 

I'm interested in what you've said, it differs from the other advice received, are you saying that you'd recommend against re-pollarding the tree just above the previous pollard points? That basically you'd suggest pruning the tree? Is this because the tree will remain healthier or will look better aesthetically? I'm interested in what you're suggesting but could you elaborate a little? Thanks if you're able to help.

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Posted

To add to Dan’s comment, remember once it hits the floor it will seem to get 3 times bigger instantly!

it’s also poor to average at best firewood, I would chip the lot.

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Posted

If it's got a TPO on it you'll only be allowed to do what the TO (tree officer) agrees to.

 

Depends on the TO if they will be happy with a re-pollard or similar, usually have to be compliant with BS3998 British Standard for Treework. There's a copy of a bs3998 .pdf kicking about somewhere on the net. You are unlikely to be able to write a TPO/Bs3998 compliant application yourself, it will depend if the TO takes pity on you and helps, or asks for a arborist to do one. You might be better asking an arb to do an application on  your behalf. I would probably charge 50-100 quid to do this, dependant on how much time it takes and how easy the TO is to work with.

Jan.

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Posted
  On 23/08/2023 at 19:25, Jim Curtis said:

 

 

Hi Martin, thanks for your suggestion, sorry I didn't reply sooner but I thought the thread was dead and I'd stopped checking back.

 

I'm interested in what you've said, it differs from the other advice received, are you saying that you'd recommend against re-pollarding the tree just above the previous pollard points? That basically you'd suggest pruning the tree? Is this because the tree will remain healthier or will look better aesthetically? I'm interested in what you're suggesting but could you elaborate a little? Thanks if you're able to help.

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Chestnuts do not react well to pollarding as they struggle to reach full occlusion. And also yes aesthetically it will look 1000xs better and not like some homeowner or weekend warrior has hacked it to bits because, yes if you want it too look good and not like a hack job, you’re going to get a professional in and bung them a few hundred quid. There’s no way you’ll achieve a decent reduction on that considering half the people in our industry won’t. That is also a shit load of brash to clear up regardless and the thought of doing that without a chipper makes me feel physically sick

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Posted
  On 24/09/2023 at 06:53, Martin du Preez said:

Chestnuts do not react well to pollarding as they struggle to reach full occlusion. And also yes aesthetically it will look 1000xs better and not like some homeowner or weekend warrior has hacked it to bits because, yes if you want it too look good and not like a hack job, you’re going to get a professional in and bung them a few hundred quid. There’s no way you’ll achieve a decent reduction on that considering half the people in our industry won’t. That is also a shit load of brash to clear up regardless and the thought of doing that without a chipper makes me feel physically sick

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furthermore if there’s a TPO on it the TO is going to love that homeowner is going to carry out the works. They will also likely only grant a target prune

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