New to forum and questions regarding Electric Chainsaw

[frin2]

I am new to this forum and a newbie to things chainsaw related never owning a chain saw before.

 

Due to an industrial accident I have some weakness in a wrist so a little wary of anything to powerful, it's a dive into the unknown but purchased a budget electric chainsaw the Hawksmore 2200w 16in complete with chain and bar instead of opting for a petrol version.

 

I have a number of longer logs to deal with, stacked by the previous owner of my property, some are rotting, a lot of moss and earth on some and damp, all require cutting, my local dump is happy to accept them as garden waste once cut, a number of them are about 14 in diameter.

 

I figured about 1200 cuts in all so a budget chainsaw would do the job, then sell or keep afterwards.

 

A few days ago I got round to unboxing the chainsaw, it was easy to set up, the bar is an Oregon 16in with “ Double Guard “ printed on one side, the specs say it's SDS and not reversable, the chain is 57 links, chain pitch: 3/8", chain gauge: 0.050" .

 

I purchased extra chains as I don't know how to sharpen, same specs' as original, Tallox brand

 

After a couple of newbie false starts, I've started cutting, so far, so good, amazed how little vibration there is for a cheap chainsaw and comfortable to use., it's doing the job but have some questions.

 

The bar is getting clogged so I'm unclogging every so often, the original chain dulled quickly after 8 cuts or so, I'm on a second and that's quickly going the same way.

 

I'm thinking this is going to get costly with replacement chains and so few cuts.

 

My questions,

 

On the Oregon bar, “ double guard “, in operation what does this mean?

 

Is it worth buying a reversible bar that will accept 56 links for my brand/model chainsaw if available, 56 link chains are cheaper, if so what bar should I buy, the specs' says existing bar is SDS and not reversible, should I stick to what I have?

 

There is available a chainsaw sharpener that takes the effort out if new to chain sharpening.

 

It's a plastic cover that fits over the nose of the bar and has a whetstone in it, you turn the saw on for a few seconds and it sharpens chain.

 

Are these universal or specific to the make/type of chain used.?

 

It's a lazy approach but I have a lot of cuts to do and dirty wood, anything that will give me some extra life/cuts out of a chain quickly.

Edited June 29, 2023 by frin2

[Stere]

Alot of questions but id start by staying maybe just don't bother cutting & taking logs to a tip. Pile them up in a corner of the garden as a "habitat pile" If they are rotten.

 

Unless is a tiny garden and you want to use the space from some other project?

 

 

Cuttig such rotten wood is always goning to blunt chains very fast.

 

I don't understand relevance  of the talk of about some oddly non reversable bar. Bars can be and should be flipped upside down as good practice to even out wear evetually but the first bar won't be worn out for ages

 

Id get a chainsaw file and give sharpening  chains a go.   4mm diamter I reckon if its 3/8 mirco

 

Not sure what double guard referes to so from google:

 

Quote

Double Guard^® 3/8" Bars. The ideal combination of safety and performance is available in these reduced-kickback bars designed for use with 3/8" professional-type chains. Features a slim shape for low weight, small-radius reduced-kickback nose and professional quality nose sprocket and bearings.

 

So maybe that the reduced kickback nose is one the the "guards" the chain break being the other?

[frin2]

37 minutes ago, Stere said:

Alot of questions but id start by staying maybe just don't bother cutting & taking logs to a tip. Pile them up in a corner of the garden as a "habitat pile" If they are rotten.

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

A long post but three question.

 

I can't find reference to "double guard " SDS or what they mean as to why the bar can't be reversed but it says so in the specs'.

 

It is only the first couple of layers of logs that are rotten, the rest being ok but damp and I require the space as a thick, large concrete base is to be laid on the spot and the builders want to start in August.

 

Hand sharpening is the best method, just don't have the time.

 

My questions still remain,

 

Hawksmore 2200w 16in complete with 57 link chain and bar.

 

Is it worth buying a reversible bar that will accept 56 links for my brand/model chainsaw if available, 56 link chains are cheaper, if so what bar should I buy, the specs' says existing bar is SDS and not reversible, should I stick to what I have?

 

There is available a chainsaw sharpener that takes the effort out if new to chain sharpening.

 

It's a plastic cover that fits over the nose of the bar and has a whetstone in it, you turn the saw on for a few seconds and it sharpens chain.

 

Are these universal or specific to the make/type of chain used.?

 

Edited June 29, 2023 by frin2

[GarethM]

You don't have 2 minutes to sharpen a chain, yet you ask a forum of tree types the best method and that is the quickest and best method.

 

It's quicker to sharpen than take off a 16" chain.

 

It's like learning to ride a bike a skill for life, or just pay a man and van to log it and lump it.

Edited June 29, 2023 by GarethM

[Bolt]

31 minutes ago, GarethM said:

You don't have 2 minutes to sharpen a chain, yet you ask a forum of tree types the best method and that is the quickest and best method.

 

It's quicker to sharpen than take off a 16" chain.

 

It's like learning to ride a bike a skill for life, or just pay a man and van to log it and lump it.

That seems a little harsh.

 

I’ve never known anyone go from saw sharpening novice to competent in 2 minutes.

 

Observe someone who has just completed a chainsaw maintenance course sharpen a chain, and the odds are it will be painful to watch, and they have had the benefit of an instructor standing over them for a few days.

 

It will take a very long time to master saw sharpening by yourself, even if you devote hours taking the sage advice of YouTube experts.

[Bolt]

47 minutes ago, frin2 said:

 

 

I can't find reference to "double guard " SDS or what they mean as to why the bar can't be reversed but it says so in the specs'.

 

 

I wouldn’t dwell on what they mean.  The pitch, gauge, number of drivelinks and bar mount are the only bits of relevant info.

 

 

[GarethM]

I could have been a little more tactful, but learn by doing. For a tenner it's worth trying, they might even get it right 1st time.

[Bolt]

54 minutes ago, frin2 said:

There is available a chainsaw sharpener that takes the effort out if new to chain sharpening.

 

It's a plastic cover that fits over the nose of the bar and has a whetstone in it, you turn the saw on for a few seconds and it sharpens chain.

 

Are these universal or specific to the make/type of chain used.?

 

I think you are referring to the Oregon Powersharp system.

 

I have no experience at all of them, but they seem to match the pitch and gauge  that your saw requires.  (3/8 and 050).

 

I have no idea about the compatibility of the bar mount, but someone else may know.

 

If you choose to go over to it, you will need to buy a new bar, sharpener, chain and sharpening stone.

 

 

[Bolt]

It is probably less hassle to carry on as you are, but put much, much more effort into avoiding cutting into mud/earth/dirt at ALL costs.

 

If the chain cuts into dirt, it’s almost certainly knackered, so there is no point cutting any more with it until all damage has been filed away.  
 

It’s quicker to avoid cutting into the dirt in the first place.

 

Don’t cut dirt, d’ya hear.

[pleasant]

As above........cut anything but dry, planed clean wood and chains need regular sharpening. Just sharp isn't good enough. Razor sharp is the only option.

I usually print this off and give a copy to my 'weekend warriors'

Looking after the chain on your chainsaw - Saw Chains

WWW.SAWCHAIN.CO.UK

---

Looking after your chainsaw chain

 

The reason they state you cannot flip the bar over, is because of the attached chain adjuster bracketry arrangement they have fitted. This may well be removable from the bar, so someone with reasonable knowledge should be able to flip the bar and re-attach it...assuming it's not riveted or spot welded in place.

 

If you have a power washer or even a decent jet head on a garden hose it would help if you washed as much crud off those logs as you can before cutting. Remember a chain is a 'blade' and running a blade through grit (all moss contains wind blown grit) and other detritus will dull very quickly. You could buy a nice expensive Stihl saw for a grand....the chains will still dull as quick.....even if you are buying Chinese ones made from cheese.

Edited June 29, 2023 by pleasant