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Can I get my 881 converted to .063 chain?


Giles D
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10 minutes ago, doobin said:

No, but you can share the chains with your existing saws which is a plus.

 

I don’t have an 881, so is the consensus that the bar mount is the same as, say, the 661?

Quite.... that is one main reason why I was asking as I was thinking of making my own loops and wasn't keen on having 5 different rolls of chain.

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the issue with converting an 880 or 881 down in chain size is not getting the bar to fit or sprocket or anything, it's the actual location of the oil holes where they come out of the saw and onto the chain. its different to other sizes. can be done if you get a lowpro bar from Rob 

 

i looked into it quite alot and on American forums too and as far as i'm aware, you can't do it. would love someone to say otherwise as would be useful to alot of people i reckon to run a smaller pitch 

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9 hours ago, doobin said:

No, but you can share the chains with your existing saws which is a plus.

 

I don’t have an 881, so is the consensus that the bar mount is the same as, say, the 661?

The bar mount is larger on the 881 than the 661 I am pretty sure. I think you would need a GB bar or maybe sugi hara with the different oil hole options on it. As above I would check with Rob D at Chainsawbars. 

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You dont need new bars. Sprocket nose bars, change the .404 nose sprocket for  3/8. Hard-nose bar, just run it. All .404 bars are already .063 gauge. You'll need a 3/8 drive sprocket of course.

 

However, there's not really any benefits to running 3/8s chain on over 100cc unless you're purely milling with extra long bars. It's not as robust and has more teeth to sharpen.

 

Edited by tree_beard
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16 minutes ago, tree_beard said:

You dont need new bars. Sprocket nose bars, change the .404 nose sprocket for  3/8. Hard-nose bar, just run it. All .404 bars are already .063 gauge. You'll need a 3/8 drive sprocket of course.

 

However, there's not really any benefits to running 3/8s chain on over 100cc unless you're purely milling with extra long bars. It's not as robust and has more teeth to sharpen.

 

A hard nosed bar isn't 3/8ths or .404 or any thing coz its got no sprocket . Once you get to 36" I would go .404 anyway . Less cutters to sharpen for a given length .

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6 minutes ago, Giles D said:

Fair enough.... tbf I may just keep it the way it is then👍

OK..... now I'm really going to really show my ignorance.... how is it that my 661 I have been running for the past few years runs better than my 881.... granted my 881 is new and may not be fully broken in but it noticeably boggs down easier even when the 661 is running the equivalent size bar.

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40 minutes ago, tree_beard said:

881 shouldn't be bogging down easily. It will however cut slower than a 661 unless you are into 4foot plus timber. It's built for dragging long bars through big bits of wood, not speed

Yes thats what I had thought.... but the saw seems to bind and bog down and stop, I'm only running a 36" on it... at first I thought it was the wood but it has done it on every job I've used it on.

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