Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Why do flue lined chimney breasts not require ventilation?


Recommended Posts

Hi

 

I was discussing this with someone yesterday and we were both puzzled...  

 

It's normal practise to ventilate an unused fireplace/chimney, with a vent brick or grille at the fireplace and some sort of vent at the cowl.  Yet if that same space was being used, but with a flue liner going through it, why does the remaining space around the outside of the flue not need to be ventilated?  Especially considering the fluctuations of temperature going on inside the space...

 

Could anyone explain?  

 

Many thanks

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

I'm not massively familiar with stove installations.  But presumably the flexi flue is sealed to rigid flue at the stove, and likewise somewhere near where it exits the roof.  With a closure plate installed above the stove, and some kind of closure at the top where the flue exists (or where the cowl is if there's a chimney), and where/how is the cavity being ventilated?  I can see that the innards of the flue are ventilated by being open both ends, but the rest of the chimney cavity?

 

I do apologise if I'm missing something obvious!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, carbs for arbs said:

I'm not massively familiar with stove installations.  But presumably the flexi flue is sealed to rigid flue at the stove, and likewise somewhere near where it exits the roof.  With a closure plate installed above the stove, and some kind of closure at the top where the flue exists (or where the cowl is if there's a chimney), and where/how is the cavity being ventilated?  I can see that the innards of the flue are ventilated by being open both ends, but the rest of the chimney cavity?

 

I do apologise if I'm missing something obvious!

Just thinking out loud here. Above the Stove is a register plate. The flexi is hung off of the top hat at the chimney. I doubt think either are gas tight. With the flexi being heated to quite high temps the breast will be getting warmed as well and will naturally vent any moisture. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

Just thinking out loud here. Above the Stove is a register plate. The flexi is hung off of the top hat at the chimney. I doubt think either are gas tight. With the flexi being heated to quite high temps the breast will be getting warmed as well and will naturally vent any moisture. 

I think Andy has it spot on here.  The vent is for disused flues, which often get damp over time.  Any flue in use even if not daily will get a lot of drying and heat and therefore damp is not usually a problem.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Gimlet

As a bricklayer I can tell you that the flue void where a liner has been fitted DOES need to be vented, top and bottom. 

For one thing, humidity from within the house will permeate the masonry and become trapped without venting, leading to chimney sweat when the stove is not in use and the flue cold. Also, soot deposits and cobwebs in an old brick flue remain a fire hazard so heat within that void needs to be vented out. On many older buildings wooden floor joists are often pocketed into the brickwork of the flue as well. If your liner insulation should fail or become detached of the liner itself become split or holed a hot-spot can be created around combustible material.

 

I've rebuilt dozens and dozens of chimney stacks, many on listed buildings and thatched properties and where clients checked their fire insurance requirements, it was demanded that all liners be insulated and the brick flue void vented at the register plate on the ground floor and at the terminal of the stack just below the pot. On listed thatched buildings some conservation officers also insist on fixing heat shields made from quarter inch aluminium plate around the stack where it is in contact with the thatch.

For ventilation I have always built in an air brick on the opposite side to the prevailing weather directly underneath the first corbel course of the terminal where it will be least visible and least likely to admit wind-blow rain.

 

Many people are not aware of stack heights required by fire regs either. On thatched houses the full height of the stack to the top of the pot must be at least 6'/1800 mm above the highest point of the adjacent thatch, and of that measurement no more than 600 mm can be the pot. So if you've got a low stack you can't just bed a massive pot on top.

I've seen lots of stove and liner installations in chimney stacks that were far too low. If they ever had a house fire their insurance would be void.

Edited by Gimlet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.