No heat from Stove ( Jotul )

[Puffingbilly413]

On 29/03/2023 at 16:35, Canal Navvy said:

Changed the rope door seals and the little flames came back. 

Very interesting. Mine is a different stove but my jets have also become less frequent. The ropes and glass gasket are overdue for a change so I'll definitely get that done. Thanks 👍

[Steven P]

On 29/03/2023 at 16:35, Canal Navvy said:

Difficulty with stove problems is that there are so many variables 😉

 

 

 

 

and here is another..... my stove puts out heat into the living room and also via the upstarts chimney breast - but that secondary heating upstairs only kicks in when the stove has been running for a while and the brickwork heats up. So if you are only using your stove for a couple of hours a day your brickwork isn't going to get noticeably warm.

 

 

Yup, go through the stove and check off where it might need maintenance - they are full of consumables and parts to maintain - sweep the flue (once or twice a year), fire bricks (vermiculite, fire clay or a cast refractory), register plate, door seals, glass seals, (and glass), clean the air ways and so on, even as far as dislodging crows nesting in the chimney. Assuming the stove has been well installed, chimney the right height, air space around the stove (else the hearth gets hot but the heat can't get out), and a stove fan can help too. Fuel is important in the mix - go soft woods and spend time just feeding the stove and see how hot you can get it (some hard woods burn less fiercely but sit burning for hours, a good softwood will vanish but put out a short load of heat), big lumps of wood burn slower than kindling, but guess you know all this.

 

If I was struggling (and when I do) an good clean is the first option though, solves most things

[Boot]

15 years a stove installer - as somebody has stated already there's a lot of variables but yup the stove is too big for the chamber, heat will be lost into the walls and radiating up through the plate. This will not be resolved by opening the vents to full as this will just burn the wood quicker / suck the heat out faster. As a process of elimination first fit the stove with a rear flue (T-pipe) thus pushing the stove roughly 200mm into the room (as long as hearth to front still meets building regs). This usually resolves the issue.

 

Secondly, if you can get access to the chimney via the register-plate, and its not got any back-fill, ram it with rock wool (A1 fire rating only) thus reducing any radiated heat being lost up the chimney.

 

The stove is a cracker and should be fine assuming baffle plate still there - given they are built like tank armour.

 

From my experience the T-pipe usually resolves the issue.

 

Boot

[slim reaper]

On 28/03/2023 at 16:08, Stubby said:

Its got no refractory lining of any sort . This cant help matters .  

Firebox on those is lined with secondary  cast iron plates to reflect the heat