Baffle plate advice

[AnthonyK]

Just took ownership of a house with a woodburner, no baffle plate. Rear sticker says it is a Warmland Gothic Multifuel, EN 13240 2001. Can't get hold of the company (disolved 2015) or any company that does spare parts. Can anyone help with this, all advice welcome. Do I go to an ironmonger and get one made, trouble is I don't have a picture of what they should be making...

[Bolt]

Man, check out those teeth!

 

 

They are going to be perfect for Halloween. 🎃 

[Dan Maynard]

There seem to be various suppliers of non branded parts, are you saying you've emailed them and no joy?

 

I wonder if you could buy something that's for a bigger stove and cut down, if you have a grinder. Otherwise it's make a pattern using corrugated cardboard and take that to a fabricator. Not too critical but smaller gap at the front, hang on the pegs at the sides, and reach down to the top of the firebrick at the back. My stove just has a rectangular piece of 3mm steel with single fold line.

[openspaceman]

Does it rest on that ledge under the flue and slope up toward the front, resting on the little spigot top left of the second picture?

 

I would buy a sheet of 20mm vermiculite board and cut it to fit.

[Steven P]

My chimney comes out the top and not the back but the stove will do both, my baffle plate is 'L' shaped with the 'L' angle about 135 degrees. Horizontal at the top and sloping downwards at the back to rest on a ledge just above the fire bricks. I don't think these are precision designed. might be wrong of course.

 

I think the baffle plate slows the exhaust of uncombusted gasses up the chimney and creates some vortexes so that these gasses can burn - and that improves the efficiency. (again, I might be wrong, but that's how it works in my mind).

 

I think then the critical thing is to have - something - there to do this, and whether it is a piece of vermiculite, 3mm bent steel or a bespoke piece all will work,

 

My first thing to do would be to measure the firebox, and see what you can get with the same width (or a couple of mm short) - you can get an angle grinder or saw to chop the length down later (I got a domestic angle grinder from Argos the other week £35, did the job, not too expensive). I say the width - in mine the baffle plate has a couple of notches so that you can lift it past the bolts on each side - get the width right and you might not need to cut these yourself, saves a job.

 

If you want to get it right get an amazon box (the card is about the right thickness) and make a template, perhaps firm up the angle with a brace to keep it steady while you check it goes in and out OK - and measure that, am sure there will be an aftermarket -something- out there

 

 

Last comment, for this I suspect a friendly local fabrication shop could knock something up quickly given the dimensions for about the price of an OEM piece, you might need to help out with cutting slots in as required but the basic shape should be easy for them

 

 

[AnthonyK]

Firstly, thank you all for your replies. Much appreciated, and good to know I was on the right track. Big shout out to my local firm HOP ENGINEERING in Staplehurst, who not only rustled up a brilliant solution, but even visited my house to see the problem first hand. How many firms can you find these days that will do that, and make it in 24 hours. Needless to say it works, and we have heat!

[Steven P]

Like the rod idea, could have done with that a couple of years ago when my baffle plate needed replacing - it wasn't sitting on the lugs any more

[AnthonyK]

And the plate slipped over with the rod in place already, otherwise it was going to be fiddly. 

[Peasgood]

It is going to be a bit fiddly when it is time to take it off and it is all rusted in place.

Cutting disc on a grinder I guess.

 

Not dissing the fix. 👍

[Dan Maynard]

13 minutes ago, Peasgood said:

It is going to be a bit fiddly when it is time to take it off and it is all rusted in place.

Cutting disc on a grinder I guess.

 

Not dissing the fix. 👍

Could maybe set the bar length so it just fits past second peg when slid all the way on to first. In use set midway, and you can get it out without moving the screws or sleeves. Plate comes out without removing the bar anyway.