Echo 2511tes Vs Stihl 151tc

[parkertrees]

Something I've noticed about the 2511t is how temperamental it is with the air filter. When I take the filter off and properly air line it out, the saw runs a bit lumpy until it gets a bit of a dusting! These days I just give it a light clean once a week, seems all it needs

[William Clifford]

I've just started looking at my 2511 again after reading this thread. I'd put it away as air filter kept getting blow back of fuel into it. It was ported (@spudulike ) Any ideas? Tbh it ran good for a little while after getting it back but it soon started happening. I'm understanding that the earlier carbs might be a bit duff? So a case of swapping carb or alchemy? 

 

Thanks!

[spudulike]

6 hours ago, William Clifford said:

I've just started looking at my 2511 again after reading this thread. I'd put it away as air filter kept getting blow back of fuel into it. It was ported (@spudulike ) Any ideas? Tbh it ran good for a little while after getting it back but it soon started happening. I'm understanding that the earlier carbs might be a bit duff? So a case of swapping carb or alchemy? 

 

Thanks!

All I do on these machines is a muffler mod and a carb retune.....the invoice and charge would have stated this and charged accordingly!

 

Blowback of fuel vapour through the carb is generally down to two things....the piston skirt on the inlet side of the port being worn allowing the port to "Freeport" or the carb being set too rich or it possibly having a stuck open check valve or other carb issues.

 

I would have tuned the max to 13krpm but if the air filter is blocked or something has changed, you could try readjusting the carb unless there are other issues present.

[William Clifford]

No question of what was done to it or the charges.

 

Air filter is clean, saw has had closer to weeks worth of use than months since new so with previous comments in this thread thought it might be to do with the earlier carb.

 

A stuck open check valve then? It get's hot then runs crap, is hard to start If it can be started at all after use. If the saw is almost new I'd hope it's not the piston skirt. Been meaning to order a tacho so will do that also and check the rpm's are still where they should be.

[spudulike]

It probably also isn't a stuck open check valve. This is pretty rare and may have seen only 3 or 4 ever.

It sounds like the carb needs adjusting. 

Using the correct adjuster...the "D" shaped one, wind the H screw in noting how many turns it takes to do so and wind it out 2 & 5/8th turns out. Do the same on the L screw and set this one 1 & 7/8ths out.

Your saw should be around 90% there on these settings. You may need a little more on the idle and without a tach, it isn't easy to set the H screw with any further accuracy.

If the saw has the paper serial number over the recoil cover...these were a bit unstable, if the serial is laser etched in to the metal, it is a later one and these tend to be better.

It is possible the carb has some dirt in the internal gauze strainer, this is very common and worth checking.

Blowback through the carb is something you get slightly but the bad cases have been caused primarily through worn pistons and generally through fine dust getting through poorly maintained air filters.

[Piston Skirt]

On 21/08/2022 at 16:09, spudulike said:

If the saw has the paper serial number over the recoil cover...these were a bit unstable, if the serial is laser etched in to the metal, it is a later one and these tend to be better.

 

 If it's the laser etched model with (P) on it (and large D for idle screw too), then the idle is rock solid 2300 +-50RPM in a very wide mixture setting range.

If that one is not stable - the mixture is terribly off.

[spudulike]

On 21/08/2022 at 08:13, William Clifford said:

No question of what was done to it or the charges.

 

Air filter is clean, saw has had closer to weeks worth of use than months since new so with previous comments in this thread thought it might be to do with the earlier carb.

 

A stuck open check valve then? It get's hot then runs crap, is hard to start If it can be started at all after use. If the saw is almost new I'd hope it's not the piston skirt. Been meaning to order a tacho so will do that also and check the rpm's are still where they should be.

Just had another in. I reckon in time, the air filter gets a little bit of fuel/oil on it and it is enough to cut off enough air to cut the max revs and I tend to tune the H screw a bit fat to ensure no engine problems....check the H screw setting and lean it up a bit. It should sort it if the issue is not hitting the high revs as it should.

[William Clifford]

It has the serial number etched on the black plus a silver sticker on the top of the recoil cover that says Feb 2020 on it amongst a few other things, but no serial number on the sticker. So that would be the later model?

 

I still need to try checking the tuning but thanks for that info.

[Piston Skirt]

19 hours ago, William Clifford said:

It has the serial number etched on the black plus a silver sticker on the top of the recoil cover that says Feb 2020 on it amongst a few other things, but no serial number on the sticker. So that would be the later model?

 

I still need to try checking the tuning but thanks for that info.

There’s a special procedure of carburettor adjustment for units with a little P in circle next to serial.

It has an active ignition coil that compensates ignition advancing to keep the idle steady.

To adjust the carburettor the override procedure must be done.

[spudulike]

23 hours ago, William Clifford said:

It has the serial number etched on the black plus a silver sticker on the top of the recoil cover that says Feb 2020 on it amongst a few other things, but no serial number on the sticker. So that would be the later model?

 

I still need to try checking the tuning but thanks for that info.

That is the later one and should be more stable.

I would wind the H screw in and see what I have set it to. If it is near 3 turns, try 2.5 turns out and see if that clears the issue. Make sure you clean all the oil off the air filter with brake cleaner (or similar) and blow through with an air line. 

The one I had in recently had a bit of oily residue on the air filter closest to the engine and it improved with the air filter cleaned but improved more with leaning off the H screw.

Try that - you will need the correct screwdriver. You can check the plug, if it is dark black/brown, it is almost definitely running rich.