Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Conversion to multi fuel


Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

On 09/04/2022 at 12:52, Alycidon said:

The sulpherous fumes from smokeless fuel will condense in the top of the flue liner and deposit corrosive flue products onto it.  This will cause 316 grade flue liner to corrode and fail.   These new power sweep systems usually rip the corroded liner to shreds.     If using smokeless then must use 904 grade flue liner unless the use is very very occasional.

Yeah I’ve decided against it. I tried it over the last couple of days, just the smokeless on its own, it wasn’t getting as hot as the logs for optimum burn unless it was fully opened up which burnt through them in no time. So I’m back to logs! I’ve ordered some heat logs, will give them a whirl to run alongside the logs and see how I get on!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 08/04/2022 at 22:27, openspaceman said:

So does the house temperature drop too far overnight? Back to your original post you want the fire to stay in overnight, I don't think that is worthwhile with wood for a number of reasons but in my case the chimney breast retains enough heat even when the fire goes out, to keep the house warm enough to get up and do chores as the stove is relit.

 

On the narrow boat it was very necessary to keep the fire in all the time and that was done with smokeless coal. As @neiln

 

says  the carbon in these smokeless coals can be from the coke left over from cracking petroleum nowadays. It is still a fossil fuel and puts the same amount of CO2 into the atmosphere as anthracite but so what?

 

I burn wood purely because it is cheaper for me to do so.

 

If you want to burn smokeless briquettes then fit the right grate or drill more holes in yours.

 

I could explain the reason why you need under grate air but it would wear my two fingers out more.

It should be in full view now for a number of reasons if you have the ready cash for PV  but not for heat.

Hi, I’ve got air under the grate and tried the smokeless but it’s a no go, will end up costing more than the logs. No I don’t need it in all night, it was an idea but as you say the chimney breast stays warm to take the chill off 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 09/04/2022 at 10:11, neiln said:

Feel for you Cath, really do.  There are going to be a lot of people in fuel poverty this winter and it's found to be grim if you're in that situation.

 

If you're liner is  316 stainless it won't like smokeless. It needs to be the higher grade, 902?

I have no idea what the liner is but after burning the smokeless (compressed coal dust) for a couple of days I’ve given up and gone back to logs. The fire only burned as hot as the logs if fully open and that burned them down in no time, they aren’t cost effective. I feel so sorry for those who are really going to suffer, I’m very lucky in that I can keep costs down by turning off the gas, others won’t have that luxury 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Stubby said:

Don't the eaves have to breath ? I do think you can go over board with shutting everything off to atmosphere resulting in condensation .

I have no idea .. there is literally nothing on the eaves except the membrane that’s under the tiles! But you are right and condensation would be a horrendous problem to sort out. I think I will leave the eaves alone to breathe 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Doug Tait said:

I'm under the impression that ideally the aim is either "hot roof" or "cold roof".

 

If the whole space is filled with insulation, with the the aim of displacing as much airspace as possible it's hot, but if there's any significant airspace left it's cold and needs to be ventilated.

 

As has been said any trapped air will contain moisture.

Well mines definitely cold then as there is loads of space in there, I will leave it alone!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Cath11 said:

Yeah I’ve decided against it. I tried it over the last couple of days, just the smokeless on its own, it wasn’t getting as hot as the logs for optimum burn unless it was fully opened up which burnt through them in no time. So I’m back to logs! I’ve ordered some heat logs, will give them a whirl to run alongside the logs and see how I get on!

Just asking where you got the smokeless from? A petrol station forecourt / DIY warehouse / supermarket smokeless is priced to compete with the people who buy 10kg of fuel at a time, for the occasional fire that looks nice in the evening (same as petrol station logs at £1 a piece), not priced to supply those who heat their houses with solid fuels. The quality doesn't have to be high either (see my comment above of sand filled briquettes) (and similarly 'kiln dried logs' that were stored outside the petrol station kiosk all winter. and are not 'kiln dried' any more, or even dried).

 

If you didn't try it already, might try phoning your local coal merchant and get them to deliver a sack of coal - in my experience better quality and bit cheaper. Quality can be seen by the amount of ash it produces - 10kg shop coal needs the ash pan emptying every 10kg bag, but coalman (mine is a man before anyone jumps on me for not being PC), coalman coal produces a lot less ash, every 2 days to empty the ash pan.

 

As for logs / coal being more efficient, in my mind coal is a bit cheaper for the heat, the fire isn't as hot but it burns at a consistent heat for longer (irrelevant for me now, got a good supply for now, just need to collect the logs, chop, split and dry - but not everyone can do that)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are short on cash but have a saw and axe then, as you are I think, getting arisings and processing them ASAP so they can dry ready for next winter.  Just don't underestimate how many you need for a season, it will be more than you think.

 

Oh and don't go spending cash on log racks, they can be made for the cost of some nails/screws (as preferred) from pallets (and in my case old fence posts).  You just need some sort of roof, again can be made from free pallet wood but I prefer the clear plastic I have on my latest one.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Rob_the_Sparky said:

Oh and don't go spending cash on log racks, they can be made for the cost of some nails/screws (as preferred) from pallets (and in my case old fence posts).  You just need some sort of roof, again can be made from free pallet wood but I prefer the clear plastic I have on my latest one.

.. and if you are really carefull taing te pallets apart you can re-use the nails too... Mind I don't even do that, just stack the logs up to dry but for the winter I store them in the garage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.