Chainsaw milling novice- cut not running straight, chain sharpening issue?

[Layne]

@Rough HewnOk thanks for that; mine are currently the other way around so that won't be helping I'm sure, I'll correct that. When you say that the sharpening is all over the place, where do you see I've gone wrong?

 

I sharpened a load of my crosscutting chains on my bench grinder yesterday, and when I looked at the angle of the tooth (I've seen Rob from chainsawbars say it should be around 60 degrees) they were much more like 80 or even 90 degrees, which I gather is not good. I'll add a photo tomorrow of that. Do you guys get the correct 60 degree angle on your teeth with your bench grinders?

[Rough Hewn]

@Rough HewnOk thanks for that; mine are currently the other way around so that won't be helping I'm sure, I'll correct that. When you say that the sharpening is all over the place, where do you see I've gone wrong?
 
I sharpened a load of my crosscutting chains on my bench grinder yesterday, and when I looked at the angle of the tooth (I've seen Rob from chainsawbars say it should be around 60 degrees) they were much more like 80 or even 90 degrees, which I gather is not good. I'll add a photo tomorrow of that. Do you guys get the correct 60 degree angle on your teeth with your bench grinders?

Look at the cutting tooth from on top.
The angle should be 0-15 degrees depending on preference. It should be a straight line.
Not curved as in your photos.

Bench grinders…
There are two types.

Plastic ones which are fine for cross cutting with small bars.

Professional metal grinders.
These are used for high precision sharpening and lowering of depth gauges.
When cutting with long bars or milling,
All teeth should be identical lengths, as well as the depth gauges.
Different pitch chains will need the appropriate sized grinding wheel. .325 3/8 and .404 all need a different sized disc. As well as another type for the depth gauges.

65 degrees is the correct side plate angle if I remember correctly.
For all Stihl chains regardless.
[emoji106]

[Layne]

@Rough Hewn thankyou! Any idea why my cutting tooth is ending up curved rather than straight?

 

Seems I need to get myself a professional metal grinder.

[trigger_andy]

9 minutes ago, Layne said:

@Rough Hewn thankyou! Any idea why my cutting tooth is ending up curved rather than straight?

 

Seems I need to get myself a professional metal grinder.

Are all the bolts and wing nuts tight when you use the Granberg? There should be little play, what you’re demonstrating indicates there is. Remember to lube the sliding arm so you’re not using more force to slide the grinder in and out. 
 

I feel you’re trying to tune a Lada like you’d tune a Ferrari. And you’re trying to run before you can walk. 
 

Save all that fettering around with different cutter heights for a year or two down the road. Pick an angle and grind them all at that and at the same height. Google the recommended raker height for the chain you’re  using and use the granberg to take them down that height. The adjustment on the Granberg is quite fine tuned. Don’t introduce more variables than necessary and get the basics dialled in first. 

[muttley9050]

Get yourself a carlton file o plate. Best way to set raker height.

[alandurrant]

On 03/09/2021 at 21:37, Rough Hewn said:

Sugihara Pro solid bars look like a good option for milling, what do you guys use?

Are they expensive? Been using a runof the mill Oregon (36'' .404) for years, no problems, done enough dimensional wood for three large sheds and forth under way this year, still good.
The photo of your teeth is of concern, they don't look good; you'll end up breaking chains with a powerfull saw. Get a 'Super Jolly' (google it), made by the manufacturer that sells them on to Oregon to re-badge, deff worth the money, and they come with the wheels to do 3/8p, 325. 3/8 and 404.
Of course, if, unlike me, you have friends you could make beer money sharpening their chains.