Green pine framed garage?

[josharb87]

I need/want to build a simple garage and pretty quickly (this summer) 

 

I want to build something like in the picture, with the idea of as and when material is available I’ll clad it in waney edge spruce, but that’s stage two and a while away.

 

I’ve a hundred or so pines at home (standing), so this is the material available, can I build with fresh green pine? 

Id hope that with the good ventilation of the design that black mould would be avoided (which normally appears on firewood here with anything but perfect drying conditions!) 

 

or would I be best to send the freshly sawn  material to a kiln? 

 

at a guess it’d be 12 meters long, 5 wide,Any programs to generate frame design and cutting list? 

Also a pic of the growth rate of pine here, just for fun

 

 

 

 

[muttley9050]

Where are you based?

Yeah it can be done but pine is a bit weaker than the usual green framing timbers.

Tenons can split out when draw bored if they are not big enough.

If I had pine and needed a shed I would use it for sure. But I would oversize everything as much as I could.

It would also be a good idea to build our and get a roof on and not be in to much of a rush to clad anything in.

Let the timber surface dry well then treat it all then clad it.

All the timber needs to be treated and this would be best done when it's drier unless you have access to a pressure treatment plant.

Kilning isn't really that beneficial if you use the correct building methods. Joints could be more mechanical and cut quicker in seasoned timber though.

[Ian Leach]

It can be done but my worry would be shrinkageand any checking when green . I personally would over engineer any building I would make.  But Swedish pine is slower growing than the uk and denser growth rings so you'll have that on your side.

[josharb87]

Thanks @muttley9050 and @Ian Leach

 

Im in Sweden, pretty much every house/shed/barn/garage is made of pine or spruce. Will shrinkage be an issue? (now seen ians reply) With regards to joints, simple and basic will be my limit 😆

 

When it comes to timber treatment, it'd be traditional slamfärg, a red waterbased paint traditionally using waste minerals from copper mining.  

 

Is pine suseptible to warping?

[muttley9050]

Not particularly susceptible to warping. Make the beams big.
Chunky joints.
And you will be fine.
Draw bore 2mm instead of 3mm.
If you wanted an easy, less skilled build then it would be simpler to get it kilned and use more timber fixings with square cut joints and housings

[Ian Leach]

As above really Josh, if your doing draw boring I would have a practice on smaller joints for your first time. But when done right solid joints.

[bilke_user]

I've built similar with green Douglas Fir grown on the west of Scotland with much wider growth rings than your timber has.  Go for it.    Plenty good sheds still standing from decades ago when kilns were only used for pottery.

 

[skc101fc]

If you can give your sawn timber even a month of air drying it will harden and lose a surprising amount of water (and weight). Freshly sawn long spans will sag - great for character but not for straight lines