Husky clutch removal

[Conner]

Just picked up this old saw. Really dirty when I got it. It’s running really well but I want to check the sprocket and grease the bearing. It looks like there is an area on the clutch face to hit and shock the clutch off but don’t want to do this. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Stubby]

39 minutes ago, Conner said:

 

Just picked up this old saw. Really dirty when I got it. It’s running really well but I want to check the sprocket and grease the bearing. It looks like there is an area on the clutch face to hit and shock the clutch off but don’t want to do this. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Yes . The depressions with the direction arrow .  Use a copper or aluminum drift and give it a sharp tap .  I find compression is usually enough but some people use a piston stop of some kind . Try it without first and make sure the decomp button  is fully out . Looks like a 346xp or similar ?

Edited April 5, 2021 by Stubby

[Conner]

It’s a 350 only homeowner saw but very cheap. No decomp. I thought that was what the cutouts were for but wanted to make sure. I have a couple of sthil and a makita first husky [emoji3]

[Stubby]

3 minutes ago, Conner said:

It’s a 350 only homeowner saw but very cheap. No decomp. I thought that was what the cutouts were for but wanted to make sure. I have a couple of sthil and a makita first husky

Ok . I think you can grease the bearing through the hole on the end of the crankshaft but you will still need to remove the clutch if you want to change the powermate rim . Or is it a spur welded to the clutch drum ? might be if its " home owner "

[adw]

As said the cutaways are ti jarr the clutch of,  do NOT use anything to lock the piston, just  jarr the clutch off against the compression, there is a workshop tool available to remove the clutch if you want to invest, and yes it is the same clutch as on the 346xp, I can get you the part no. of the ppl if you wish.

[adw]

I am fairly sure you cannot grease the bearing through the end of the crank.

[Conner]

I will give it a go tonight. I will use a brass punch. This saw was bought as a project and I’m surprised it fired up[emoji3]. The only thing I can find wrong is the end of the dead man switch has snapped off. Il see how it cuts. Photos of it when it came.

[spudulike]

This is the tool ADW mentioned. If you have an old socket of the correct dimensions, you can fabricate one yourself! Make sure you take the recoil cover off when removing and refitting the clutch as the pawls locate in the recoil pulley unlike many other saws.

I personally find the Stihl piston stop, one of the best - that is the dog bone double ended one. Never use a metal screw in type as it is likely to crack the crown of the piston.

Puller for Husqvarna 445, 450, 455, 460 Chaisnaws - 502 54 16-03 | L&S Engineers

WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK

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Puller / Koppling Genuine Husqvarna Part OEM No. 502 54 16-03 Suitable for the Following Application's: 340, 345, 346, 350, 351, 353, 445, 450, 455, 460

 

[adw]

Saw could do with a bloody good clean sir.

[Conner]

Removing the starter makes sense as I could hear a noise coming from that side when turning the clutch. Thanks for the advice.