Vertical milling options

[topchippyles]

8 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

Another option...
Get an L bracket which fits on the guide bar bolts.
A sheet of thick ply on heavy tressels.
Then cut a slot for the bar to fit through.
Bolt down saw with bar pointing down through ply.
Flip the lot and you’ve got a massive table saw.

Some sort of contraption that would be.

[Rough Hewn]

Some sort of contraption that would be.

It’s in Will Malloff’s book:
Chainsaw lumber making
I would recommend it to anyone who chainsaw mills. Lots of interesting tricks to do with saws and milling.
[emoji106]

(And use a small saw for the table saw)[emoji6]

[Rough Hewn]

I haven’t used either the granberg or the panther intersect,
But Wonky and I tried making one many years ago.
It was all over the place.🤣🤣🤣
If you’re serious about cutting big beams then get the proper kit.
One decent log and it’s paid for itself. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Personally I use a Logosol F2+ to cut beams.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[topchippyles]

1 minute ago, Rough Hewn said:

I haven’t used either the granberg or the panther intersect,
But Wonky and I tried making one many years ago.
It was all over the place.🤣🤣🤣
If you’re serious about cutting big beams then get the proper kit.
One decent log and it’s paid for itself.
Personally I use a Logosol F2+ to cut beams.

Is that why you call him wonky then ? All over the place 

[agg221]

Just to add, another approach you can take with the mini-mill combined with the Alaskan is to quarter big logs. I sometimes get asked to quartersaw decent oak and my usual sequence is to skim the top flat and an equal height from the centre at each end; then cut dead up the middle with an Alaskan. I then use the mini-mill, set to the same depth, to quarter the top half. Even in a 4ft butt x 15ft long I now have something I can roll off sideways or slide off to the end. This can then be cut using an Alaskan, either as a square beam or as a series of quartered boards off each face in turn. If the bark comes off easily then I can debark and run every cut off a sawn edge which makes the mill feed more smoothly. If the bark won't come off then I run off the bark face as even though it feeds less well, it means I am pulliing the bark away from the cut, which tends to mean the teeth don't catch grit and dull, and the board faces stay cleaner.

 

The reason I make the top vertical cut completely separately from the lower cut is that it allows me to reposition the line to get the best out of the log. It can be worth another inch on the square, which is significant value when you add it up. Once the top half has gone, it is a lot easier to lift the bottom half clear of the ground to run the mill down without catching on anything or blowing so much sawdust in your face.

 

Will Maloff's book is excellent reading.

 

Alec