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560xp not starting, spark OK


mirecc
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Well we can't all live in ivory towers, some of us have to swill in shyte and sort out all of those shyte issues no one else can sort!

I would think most decent techs can use the recoil starter to instantly get a bearing on the state of the piston and bore. 

I won't mention the MS200t carb? eh!!

Most people don't own a good compression gauge - what else can be suggested!!!

 

 

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Everyone has their bad days Spud... I'm still confused with that. You would think that that following the manual and taking the idle to 2800rpm **as per spec** would be the right thing to do but it now idles at 3100 because the tech said they never idle at 2800 ?. I just went in circles with it and gave it to someone else to check my sanity ?

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Ouch! I forgot about that, but danggling a saw by the starter rope?  what if there is excess oil in the cylinder?  what if the ring is not trapped? It can make you just rule out a seizure  and start wasting time messing with carbs etc, if there is any doubt lift the cylinder, at least you will know for sure.

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I guess so but in my experience a lot of small engines score and seize on the chain side of the exhaust port. I've had some before that looked nice through the exhaust port but had no compression. The piston was scored in the right fwd corner and you couldn't see it. That was a farmers saw though that had been used and abused where it's dragged out the truck cold and put flat out straight away.

I'm just trying to offer solutions that anyone can do with no tools and give a yes or no answer to aid diagnosis :P 

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15 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

I guess so but in my experience a lot of small engines score and seize on the chain side of the exhaust port. I've had some before that looked nice through the exhaust port but had no compression. The piston was scored in the right fwd corner and you couldn't see it. That was a farmers saw though that had been used and abused where it's dragged out the truck cold and put flat out straight away.

I'm just trying to offer solutions that anyone can do with no tools and give a yes or no answer to aid diagnosis :P 

Fair comment sir.

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12 hours ago, adw said:

Ouch! I forgot about that, but danggling a saw by the starter rope?  what if there is excess oil in the cylinder?  what if the ring is not trapped? It can make you just rule out a seizure  and start wasting time messing with carbs etc, if there is any doubt lift the cylinder, at least you will know for sure.

... Just tell them its fvvkd n they have to buy a new saw, give them a tenner n fix it proper at yr leisure. Two tools i bought / made was blanking plates fr compression crankcase test ( an a bike pump) and a vaccumn guage. Puts you right up with the dealers that does. But truely an arse diagnosing modern saws ?  k

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7 minutes ago, Khriss said:

But truely an arse diagnosing modern saws ?  k

I haven't found the stihl stuff too bad. Their system is pretty dumb and not the super intelligent ECU that everyone thought it was. To be fair to stihl if there's an issue with their kit then they own it and replace the parts for cheap. A full mtronic update/repair kit for a 201T for example is £51 and that includes a new flywheel, ignition module, carburettor and throttle rod. The update kit for my 261 was £17 for a new fuel solenoid and filter etc. Not so sure about Huskys though... 

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Just had a non start prob with a Husky and on about the third strip down I noticed some small water globules on the pump diaphragm, so changed the carb (Lots of spares, long time chainsaw user) thoroughly cleaned the tank and off she went. By the way I could not find any water present in the fuel in the tank. 

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