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recomdations on a new saw please


petespeed
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31 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Well, then I live in ignorance. Like I said, apart from picking one up in the store, finding it plasticy and putting it back, I don't have any experience with them. I don't take which are the no.1 selling chainsaws into consideration personally. If you type in UK no.1 selling chainsaw they try and sell you a 1.3kw Einhell followed by a bosch plug in. Other websites suggest a P1PE, a no name 50cc chainsaw or a hyundai. Doesn't mean I'm going to buy a load of extension leads or my carb adjustment screwdriver set for those weird Chinese carbs before heading up a tree. 

 

I'm not saying Makita/Dolmar aren't any good at all. I'm sure they're fantastic saws. I'm just saying that if I'm buying something to make money from I'm going to buy a Stihl or Husky just because their pro range is tried and tested, they're well designed with there's loads of info online, massive parts availability, loads of tech support so I can just take it into a shop and have it fixed and a good resell value if I need it gone... When you compare a 6100 with a stihl Ms362 (same CC class, the makita being 2cc more) the MS362 is more powerful, Weighs less, it's quieter and it has considerably lower vibration levels (which matters if this is your career). I'm sure they're great saws but being the best selling in Germany doesn't make them the best on the market. 

 

Surprised you say that... The 6100 is/was supposed to be the class leader when it was introduced.

 

The 7900/7901 is/was its class leader - it had the best power:weight of any saw but it has been around a little while now.

 

As for those saws you mention being "market leaders" I was of course referring to the professional forestry industry - not what trash sells in volume from Homebase or the likes to homeowners. But I think you knew that, though...

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14 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Sounds like you've had a bad time... It's all personal experience at the end of the day. So far my MS261c-m hasn't given me any trouble in 3 years ownership. Updated the M-tronic system myself for £13 with a new fuel solenoid, filter etc etc. Say you have a 201T and the mtronic fails and there's an issue then a full kit from stihl is under £50 for a new flywheel, carb and ignition unit. Mtronic isn't the super brainbox that everyone made it out to be and it's worked well for me so far. I have a powerful saw that basically cares for itself.

 

On the front of Stihl repairs I don't have any experience with it. I went in with my 200t and they fixed it FOC, never needed it outside of that. On the other hand I have repaired a Makita blower for someone that took over £70 of parts and I had to hunt around as parts availability was nil. 

 

I'm not dissing makita, it's horses for courses... I know what I like and where my loyalties lie from my experience. When I went to buy a Makita there was less support and it's not as easy getting parts. They just seemed like a compromise to me, not a cheapo saw but not the high spec I expect of a pro saw.yes

 

Anyway, this guy wanted advice on what to get, I would go with the Makita 

Yes, I am not saying other saw brands are bad, some models gave more trouble than enough, I would have loved my nice new 362 to have been a success, funny story, a guy came along and saw the 6100 cutting, and insisted he wanted to buy it, so I sold it there and then, and off to try the new fangled technology I went, man I was so annoyed, I could have put up with the difficult to clean aribox, and the lighter weight, and the parts close at hand, but I have not had a good experience with getting things sorted, I even was charged for parts that broke hours into work, so to avoid a repeat I sold it on, let the person who bought it see me start it, and at the price I sold it for if the new owner wanted to take it in to Stihl under my name I would have stood by him.

You can get a lemmon in any brand, and its that lemmon that makes one question whether of not to try the brand again.

 

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49 minutes ago, Echo said:

Yes, I am not saying other saw brands are bad, some models gave more trouble than enough, I would have loved my nice new 362 to have been a success, funny story, a guy came along and saw the 6100 cutting, and insisted he wanted to buy it, so I sold it there and then, and off to try the new fangled technology I went, man I was so annoyed, I could have put up with the difficult to clean aribox, and the lighter weight, and the parts close at hand, but I have not had a good experience with getting things sorted, I even was charged for parts that broke hours into work, so to avoid a repeat I sold it on, let the person who bought it see me start it, and at the price I sold it for if the new owner wanted to take it in to Stihl under my name I would have stood by him.

You can get a lemmon in any brand, and its that lemmon that makes one question whether of not to try the brand again.

 

I know what you mean about lemons. I have a Volvo that's cost thousands in repairs and his been nothing but a PITA! 

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thanks for all your replies lads , im not as keen on the makita , i,m a tradesman & used to be a makita man till the end ,however over last few years ive been disapointed with there construction products 

,hence ive moved over too dewalt ,perhaps i should up the budget & go sthill or husa 

to be fair my ms 180s have served me well & they we both secound hand !

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12 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

I know what you mean about lemons. I have a Volvo that's cost thousands in repairs and his been nothing but a PITA! 

Tell me, sister had a three yr old diesel one, sent it away in no time, fuel problems,

pump. No more volvo. Went back to Volkswagen.

 

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14 minutes ago, petespeed said:

thanks for all your replies lads , im not as keen on the makita , i,m a tradesman & used to be a makita man till the end ,however over last few years ive been disapointed with there construction products 

,hence ive moved over too dewalt ,perhaps i should up the budget & go sthill or husa 

to be fair my ms 180s have served me well & they we both secound hand !

Those Makita saws must be about for ten years, minimal upgrades to please the emissions police,

that says a lot for their build.

Regardless, I hope what ever you decide on suits well.

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Parts are no good to you for your Stihl, you first need a computer to tell you
which part is gone wrong, so that means going to a dealer, and are you going
to leave the dealer then taking your saw with you to find the part, probably not,
your going to pay more to get the Stihl fixed at the dealers, which I have no gripe with, but you could save by fixing your own Makita, and it probably
wouldnt break in the first place.
 
I have had both the MS362 MT and the Makita EA6000,
they really are different animals, the Makita has more power,
has a very good cooling system, and is very easy to clean down,
especially under the top cover, it also starts easier every time.
 
The MS362 wouldnt even start withoug a serious tugging match,
it was so bad, I didnt even take it to work, I sold it at a big loss,
as I did not fancy trying to convince the dealer it had problems,
I would be told to leave it in, wait, wait wait, then I would be told it was fine,
then repeat, so no, I got rid of it right away, its also quite a mess under the
hood to try and clean, no doubt is was a better balanced and a little lighter,
but sitting in the shed because it was a pig to start wasnt going to cut wood.
 

The only part with a chip in is the carburettor.
Everything else is mechanical or electrical.
And they are about the same price as a standard carb.
[emoji106]
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Just now, Rough Hewn said:


The only part with a chip in is the carburettor.
Everything else is mechanical or electrical.
And they are about the same price as a standard carb.
emoji106.png

Yes, but can an ordinary man diagnose whats up with one of these.

I read about people having issues and being told its cheaper to buy a new saw.

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Yes, but can an ordinary man diagnose whats up with one of these.
I read about people having issues and being told its cheaper to buy a new saw.

It’s a chainsaw.
The only difference is the carburettor controls are set by computer.
Everything else is the same as normal.
I buggered my 261 carburettor last year, the brass rod holding the butterfly had worn the aluminium casing away.
The auto tune had been compensating until the wear got too much.
Took it to my dealer, he spotted it in ten seconds. Didn’t need a computer.
Changed carb job done [emoji106]
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